Forum Replies Created
Hi Sara. Your current negative equity position of £715 sounds about right, given that you are only just over halfway through your finance agreement. In fact, it’s probably better than most at this point in the contract.
If you’re putting in £1,000 deposit on your new contract, that should be £715 to clear your negative equity and £285 actually going towards your new car.
To answer your last question, if you get to a position where your settlement is £9,000 and your car’s part-exchange value is £9,000, then you can PX it with nothing further to pay.
- 18 January 2018 at 3:18 pm in reply to: Loud snapping sound as I got into car, scraping sound when I try to drive #127386
Hi Anne. The DVLA is hopelessly incompetent when it comes to private plate transfers, so you’re not alone in being very confused.
Don’t hand over the MINI until after you have got the V5C for the car with its old number back on it. If you hand over a logbook with the private number on it, you are basically surrendering the number plate. The chances of you getting that number plate back again are slim to none.
The DVLA now offers the opportunity to change your plates online and immediately (as opposed to the old way of doing it via the post and losing six months of your life waiting for it to all be processed).
When doing your plate changes online, as soon as you complete the online form to remove the private plate, it is immediately de-allocated from your car. You need to put the original plates back on immediately before you drive it again. The V5C will be posted out to you (which you will need to part-exchange the car to the dealer), but that could take a couple of weeks.
The same applies in reverse for applying your private plates to your new car. As soon as you complete the online form to apply the plate to your Astra, it will be allocated to that car. So basically, you need to have your new number plates made up and ready to fit as soon as the plate change is approved, rather than waiting for the V5C logbook to arrive.
I haven’t used the online process for this personally, but that appears to be how it’s done.
Hi Ginno. It could be quite difficult to get any joy, as the car has done 210,000 miles and has a very low value.
After that much use, it will be difficult to definitively prove that the car was sold in a faulty condition or serviced incorrectly to cause faults. As much as you want to believe that it’s the case, it’s difficult to prove that.
- 19 January 2018 at 11:14 am in reply to: Advice returning car on finance – can they make you pay the shortfall??? #127420
- 19 January 2018 at 9:43 am in reply to: Rejecting used car: how to prove that the fault was present at the point of sale #127405
Hi Helmut. You will have to keep hassling the dealer (without being rude or abusive, of course!). Just keep annoying them, call twice a day if necessary, write to the dealer principal demanding immediate provision of the keys and service books. Go into the dealership, if necessary, and demand to have the items handed over (weekdays are better for this, as they can’t dodge it by saying that the relevant admin staff are not around on weekends), and so on.
It may be that they have simply lost these items, and are hoping that you will give up and go away so they don’t have to go to the hassle of replacing a £300 key and chasing up service records. That’s not your problem, as you need a spare key (if your current key dies or is lost, you won’t be able to use your car) and a lack of service books will devalue your car when you come to sell it.
Assuming they can find or replace the missing items, it’s not going to be sufficient grounds to reject the car under the Consumer Rights Act.
If you are rejecting the car under the Consumer Rights Act, you are not entitled to reimbursement or compensation for anything like personal plates, losses associated with not having the car or money you have spent rectifying faults yourself. You are only entitled to a refund of the vehicle at the original price paid (if rejecting within 30 days). Your warranty conditions may be different.
Similarly, the Consumer Rights Act says that companies must pay any refunds promptly. If you are working outside the Act or through your warranty company, that won’t necessarily apply.
Hi John. Your warranty documents should explain how they account for the number of days.
The Consumer Rights Act, which is separate to your warranty, doesn’t count any days that the car is in the possession of the dealer/garage. They also don’t count any days between when you made a complaint and when they book the car in (to stop them refusing to look at the car for more than 30 days…). However, your warranty doesn’t necessarily work the same way.