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What to do after a car accident

Unfortunately, almost every car owner has been involved in a car accident. Thankfully, modern cars provide a very high level of safety and most accidents are relatively minor. Car insurance also means that most accidents are easy to solve and recover from.

There are situations that are more difficult to handle, however. Let’s have a look at the things you need to do when you find yourself in a car accident.

Move away with your car

After an accident, you may feel the need to stop in the same position. This might seem beneficial, but if possible it is important to give other road users space to move on, to avoid further accidents or other dangerous situations.

Many a minor car accident has become much more serious when another car has subsequently become involved. Once you have moved your car to a safe position, it is important to turn the engine off so that leaking fluids cannot catch fire.

After this put on the hazard lights and, if you have them, place warning triangles to warn oncoming traffic.

Safety first!

When the car is in a safe position you should check if your fellow passengers are fine and whether those in the other car have sustained any injuries. When someone is injured severely, do not waste any time and call the emergency services.

Call the emergency services

Call emergency services after a car accident (The Car Expert)

Inspect the damage that has been done to your car. When you think the damage will cost you more than £1,000 you should call the police.

Also, call the cops when any traffic law has been broken. Laws that might have been broken can include switching lanes without indicating, overlapping, or when drugs or alcohol have possibly impaired the driver’s judgement.

Gather details

Make a note of the licence plate, model and make of the cars involved. Ask for the driver’s name, driving license number and phone number. Do not forget to write down the other driver’s insurance number and the company that provides his or her cover. This makes things easier for the police when they arrive at the scene.

Write down where the car accident took place

Jot down the name of the road or street where the accident has happened. You can also write down an address or intersections that are nearby. Also draw a sketch of the scene.

You can do this with a drawing but you can also use your smartphone to take pictures. Take a photo of the position of the cars and the damage that has been done.

Contact the insurance company

If the accident has just happened and you’re at the scene your memory of the accident is still fresh. This will give them the most accurate account of the situation. Your insurance company will help you construct a report of the accident and guide you through the claiming process. Your insurance company will now be able to start looking into the claim for you.

Talk with the police

Try to stay neutral when you are explaining the incident to the police. Do not make any assumptions about whose fault it is. Police agents are trained to assess what has happened and determine who is in the right.

Be honest and don’t make contact with the insurance company of the other party involved. Your insurance company will look into these matters for you.

Now you know what to do after a car accident you will be better able to keep your cool and take care of the situation correctly.

Let’s hope you’ll not find yourself in a situation like this any time soon, though!

How to keep your alloy wheels properly maintained

When it comes to top quality car wheels, alloy wheels rank high on the charts. Since these wheels are made of aluminium, they are much stronger, and provide better acceleration and braking than regular steel wheels.

In addition, alloy wheels improve the appearance of your car, giving it a classy look. However, in order to keep those wheels shining like new, you would need to put some effort into the maintenance.

When it comes to car maintenance, we often forget about the wheels, focusing more on the body of the vehicle. Regular cleaning and maintenance are as important for the wheels as it is for the car’s body. Aluminium alloy wheels, in particular, require more maintenance than others. Properly maintained alloy wheels will add to the appearance and overall value of your car.

The good news is proper care of alloy wheels does not require a lot of hard work. Periodic cleaning and polishing can preserve their shine. If you want to keep your car wheels looking like new, consider the following points:

Things you will need

BMW M3 coupe with aftermarket aluminium alloy wheels (The Car Expert)

Aluminium wheels need regular cleaning and maintenance. For cleaning the wheels, you would need water and hose, soft rags or washing mitt, a wheel cleaning brush, and some large cotton swabs.

These large cotton swabs will be used for cleaning the hard-to-reach spots. You would also need to buy a mild wheel cleaner and a polish. However, make sure the polish and the cleaner both suit the wheel’s finish.

Wheels and other aluminium automotive parts are often waxed or coated with clear coats or paints. That is why the polish and the cleaner must go with the coating of the wheel. If the finish of the aluminium wheels are anodised, you should use petroleum jelly.

Cleaning alloy wheels

A warm day is ideal to clean your wheels, however try to avoid doing it in direct sunlight. Start by cleaning the wheels with water. Using a hose will help you reach inside the spokes. You can arch the hose just a bit to get dirt and grime out of the tricky corners of the wheel.

It is important that you rinse off dirt and grime as cleanly as possible. This will help avoid scratching the surface of the wheel while cleaning.

Once you are done hosing the wheels, soak the rag or mitt into soapy water and give the wheel a gentle scrub. After scrubbing the entire wheel thoroughly, rinse off the soapy solution with plain water.

Clean inside the spokes using the wheel brush and rinse thoroughly once you are done. The large cotton swabs will help you wipe the remaining dirt off. After cleaning the wheels thoroughly, dry them with a clean cloth or towel.

Waxing and polishing

While some wheels need polish, others require wax. The type of wax or polish you use will depend on the wheel’s finish. If the wheel has a chrome finish, you would need to use a chrome polish. If the aluminium wheels are polished, go for aluminium polish. For painted or coated wheels, choose to use a good quality automotive wax for protecting the finish.

Apply the wax or polish using a clean rag and buff till it becomes shiny. Polishing is not necessary for anodised wheels. In that case, applying a thin coat of petroleum jelly would do.

Nice and shiny aluminium wheels can significantly enhance the appearance of your car, while adding to its overall performance. Use these tips to bring back the lustre in your car’s wheels.

Audi Q7 wearing custom aluminium alloy wheels and bodykit (The Car Expert)

Budget tyres vs premium tyres

If you have ever phoned a tyre fitter to enquire about the cost of replacement tyres for your vehicle, you will know that there is a huge range of tyres available for virtually any car – from world-renowned premium brands at premium prices, to wide choice of mid-range tyres, to budget tyres from brands that you’ve probably never heard of.

Consequently, choosing the right tyre for your car and for the mileage and conditions in which you drive can be a confusing business. And with a huge differential in terms of the price of premium and budget tyres, often the temptation is to aim for value without giving consideration to whether premium tyres are worth their weight in… well, rubber.

Premium branded tyres

For premium tyres think Goodyear, Michelin, Pirelli, Bridgestone et al. These are the tyres that, although black and round like their cheaper counterparts, will deflate your bank account faster than your last blowout.

But by purchasing a premium tyre, you are also paying for the huge sums invested in tyre technology, engineering and safety testing that goes into making these tyres both hard-wearing and safe.

In product tests carried out by car magazine What Car?, premium brands consistently outperformed their cheaper rivals, offering improved wear, grip and fuel efficiency. If you tend to cover many miles each year or engage in a lot of high speed driving such as on motorways, then these tyres could be well worth shelling out a little extra for.

Mid-range brands

Sandwiched between the upper and lower echelons of the tyre market are the mid-range brands, which tend to sport familiar premium brand names or are often manufactured by these companies under a different name.

These tyres are often a good compromise for general use, offering more in the way of wear and fuel efficiency than the cheapest alternatives and benefiting from the same technology invested in the premium brands, but at a more reasonable price.

Budget tyres

The key question concerning budget tyres is whether you get what you pay for and whether buying cheaper tyres is actually economical in the long run. The answer is a confusing “possibly”.

These tyres, which are more suited for slower speeds on urban roads or for cars that only do low mileage, are more appropriate for second cars or ‘runarounds’ where distance isn’t an issue.

Of course, if cost is a serious consideration, a budget tyre is a preferable option to a more expensive tyre that is badly worn or distorted. Essentially budget tyres offer good value so long as you don’t expect to complete a tour from Land’s End to John O’Groats.

Improved labelling

With EU requirements now in force for tyre manufacturers to provide clear performance labelling on tyres, consumers are able to make a more reasoned judgement about the tyres that are most suited to their vehicle, their journeys and their style of driving.

Are budget tyres better value than premium tyres? Find out at TheCarExpert.co.uk

Five of the best cars for new drivers

“Congratulations, you’ve passed.” Hearing these three words when you’re sat behind the wheel, parked up at the test centre following your practical driving test has the potential to change your life forever. Likely to be offering your first taste of real independence, you are now legally allowed to head out on to the open road in a car, yet the next thing you might have to think of is which car to get. Concern yourself no more, however, as detailed below are five of the best cars for new drivers, offering the nice drive and high level of safety any new drivers, and their parents back at home, will be looking for.

Vauxhall Corsa

The Vauxhall Corsa is a good choice for new driversThere is a high possibility that you may have learnt to drive in a Vauxhall Corsa as it is the car of choice for many driver instructors out there. This car ticks all the boxes for new drivers looking for their first car, due to the fact that it falls into a low insurance bracket, has affordable spare parts should you be unfortunate enough to have any minor scrapes, and is most importantly solidly made, ensuring the highest possible level of safety for a vehicle of this size.

Ford Ka

The Ford Ka is a good choice for new driversAnother popular choice for new drivers is the Ford Ka, a vehicle that will have you falling in love with being behind the wheel. The Ka is affordable to buy, run and insure so meets all the requirements in terms of finance. It may not be as large as the Corsa, but the Ka is surprisingly airy with plenty of room in the front. The boot space is also more than acceptable for a small car, ensuring you have sufficient storage space for any college/uni work as well as an abundance of CDs to play to your hearts content.

Suzuki Swift

The Suzuki Swift is a good choice for new driversFor a small car with a bit of a punch, the Suzuki Swift is the car for you.  With a 1.5-litre engine, it could be argued that this car offers slightly too much power for new drivers, but this is a car that you can grow into. Whereas you may look to move on to other cars following your first car pretty quickly, the Suzuki Swift is a vehicle that you can keep for a prolonged period of time. With a Euro NCAP rating of 4 stars alongside being in insurance group 3, you will need to pay slightly more to get this car in the first place, but you certainly won’t regret it.

Citroën C2

The Citroen C2 is a good choice for new driversThe Citroën C2 can be classed as the perfect city car, so if you are off to University and want to take a car with you to ensure you can travel around easily, this is the one you want. From £1,500, this car is very reasonably priced and whilst it only has a 1.1-litre engine, it is ideal to be driven around a city or the suburbs. Being in insurance group one also ensures you won’t be breaking the bank to insure it, and thanks to its classy design, it will look great wherever you are driving it.

Fiat Punto

The Fiat Punto is a good choice for new driversLike the Suzuki Swift, the Fiat Punto is another car that is great for a first car but also has the ability to stick with you for a number of years. The Punto has the highest insurance rating of the cars in this list (being in insurance group 4) and is likely to require a considerable outlay to purchase initially, however it is a great car to get to grips with driving in. Available in both two- and four-door models, there is plenty of room for passengers whilst the ride, thanks to the 1.2-litre engine, is comfortable without ever being risky. If you are currently learning to drive or have just passed your test, be sure to consider one of the five cars listed above when it comes to buying your very own first car; you certainly won’t be disappointed.

Car cleaning: How to remove the effects of winter from your car

The end of winter and the arrival of spring is often synonymous with a particular phrase – spring cleaning. And it isn’t just a task which can be carried out on the inside and outside of your home; a great deal of car cleaning work can also be done to ensure that much of the grime which has accumulated on your car is cleaned away.

If the dirt accumulated on a car is left to moulder, it can cause problems at a later stage, even encouraging the development of corrosion. So setting aside a few hours to clean the car properly – either by doing it yourself, or taking advantage of a commercial valeting service – is a sound idea.

Car cleaning:  Beware of alien substances

This 500 could use some car cleaning (The Car Expert)

Winter sees a great many substances which find their way onto our roads also working their way into the bodywork and fabric of our vehicles.

And while snow and slush will eventually melt away, of course, they can leave behind plenty of other dirt which, if left for any length of time, can be more difficult to remove than if it was tackled straight away.

A professional car valeting service will have the necessary tools to effectively remove all this detritus, because it’s quite possible that a simple washing sponge, hot water mixed with car shampoo, and elbow grease might not even be able to remove some of the marks.

In such an instance, the first thing a valeting service will do is to use a high-pressure hose or nozzle to aim a jet of water directly at the worst affected areas, to loosen the muck. Once this is done, it can then be properly removed using more conventional means, such as the good old shampoo and warm water.

Car cleaning:  Don’t overlook the underbody

car-cleaning-mudy-wheel-the-car-expert

When they carry out their own car cleaning, many people miss some important areas. The parts in and around a car’s wheel arches are particularly susceptible to being overlooked, and this can cause problems, because your tyres churn up lots of mud, water and other grime as you drive, which can become encrusted beneath the wheel arches.  If left unattended, this can lead to corrosion in areas that are difficult and expensive to repair.

Mud and detritus thrown up from the wheels can also stick to other parts of the car’s underbody, so it’s important to get your high-pressure hose under the car to attack all the nooks and crannies.

Car cleaning:  Examine and replace safety-critical equipment

Volkswagen Jetta (Bora) in the middle of a car cleaning session (The Car Expert)

Winter weather also takes its toll on many perishable items on a car, particularly the tyres and windscreen wiper blades. A wise move after a prolonged period of bad weather is to get your tyres checked for condition and tread depth.

In any case, you should quickly notice if your tyres are excessively worn, as this will make the car more difficult to handle, and this will be particularly evident when road surfaces are slippery. So as a matter of safety, it should be attended to quickly.

And a final consideration: we all spend more time driving in darkness and poor light in winter than at other times of the year, so this means we spend longer with the car’s lights switched on. You might not immediately notice that a light bulb has blown, but you should regularly check that they are all working, and again, inspect any which are not working properly, then replace them if necessary.

When you've finished your car cleaning, your car should look like this Aston Martin Vanquish...
When you’ve finished your car cleaning, your car should look like this Aston Martin Vanquish…

How smart is your car key?

Had enough of turning keys and pressing buttons? Fed up with rummaging through your bag to dig out your car key? Welcome Keyless Go, an advanced car key system that simplifies the task of unlocking and starting a car. ‘Keyless entry’ for motor vehicles was introduced more than 20 years ago and permits or deny’s access to your car from a single push of a button on the vehicles ‘remote locking key fob’. This remote keyless entry – RKE – removes the need to manually turn a car key in a door lock. Passive Keyless Entry (PKE) takes driver comfort one step further and lets you lock and unlock your vehicle, and start the engine, without even having to take the car key out of your pocket or handbag.  This advanced driver convenience system was initially developed by Siemens in the mid 1990s and was offered to Mercedes-Benz who gave it the title “Keyless Go”. These keyless systems are also commonly referred to as Smart Keys or Passive Keyless Entry (PKE) systems and are now frequently used by many other luxury car manufacturers, each giving the system their own name.

How do passive keyless entry systems work?

The driver can either hold the smart key or simply store it securely in their pocket or bag. On approaching the vehicle, the driver is identified by a paired radio transponder chip inside the car key. The doors can then be unlocked and opened by simply pulling the handles. When leaving the vehicle, the door is either locked by touching a button on the door handle or simply walking out of range. The added luxury continues inside the vehicle, as the engine can be started by simply pushing a button on the dashboard. Again, this is all performed without removing or touching the car key.

How secure are passive keyless entry systems?

Mercedes-Benz car key (2013, The Car Expert)A vehicle operating with PKE will be fitted with several antennae around the bodywork that detect the key signal. Should the antennae fail to function, there is a back-up mechanical key blade concealed in the car key. The key blade can be manually turned in a door lock that will usually be hidden under a plastic cap for enhanced cosmetic appearance. Different vehicle manufacturers have developed the Passive Keyless Entry system to work uniquely with their vehicles, and some provide as many as ten built-in antennae. An independent review of PKE systems examined how secure the systems really are by putting three vehicles under test. The Jaguar XK with four built in antennas, Nissan Pathfinder with just three receivers and a BMW 530xi with an impressive ten total antennas were scrutinised. The test arranged for all three vehicles to visit a petrol station and have the driver fill-up the car whilst the key was left on top of the boot. An actor then attempted to open a door and steal the car, with the driver just three feet away. The BMW system was the most secure and only allowed the door to be opened that was nearest to the key, which was the boot. The Jag performed similarly again allowing just the door nearest the key to be opened. The Nissan system with the fewest antenna proved to be the most insecure permitting all doors to be opened, although the vehicle could not be started. In 2005, Thatcham introduced a standard for keyless entry systems requiring the key to be inoperable at a distance of more than 10cm from the vehicle. In another independent test, Nissan came out on top with the Nissan Micra Intelligent key system. Rather surprisingly, certain BMW and Mercedes models actually failed the test, meaning it was possible for the car to be driven off while the owner was close by.

Added car key luxury

Some vehicle manufacturers have further developed PKE keys to store user comfort preferences. When a key is within recognisable distance, the vehicle will adjust preset seat and mirror positions, as well as climate control and radio settings. This is a fantastic function if you like your seat laid back and the radio loud, but your partner prefers an upright seat with the relaxing tones of classical FM. Some cars even allow speed restrictions to be set when used with a specific key.  This gives parents added control over how fast their children are able to drive their car.

Conclusion

Passive keyless entry systems focus on the ‘convenience factor’ and provide added comfort and a touch of luxury for car owners. With the ability to unlock doors and start the engine by simply pushing a button, the old style car key seems slightly archaic in comparison. But I have to question, exactly how difficult is it to turn a key or push a button on a key fob? Are we really becoming that lazy and strapped for time that even a single push of a remote fob button is a chore? With there no longer being a requirement to remove the car key from your pocket, I feel the chances of losing or having the key stolen are much greater since there is an overall reduced awareness of the key – just sling it in your bag and forget about it, and only realise it’s been stolen three hours later. Since the smart keys are not required to be turned in the ignition, I suspect there may be the odd moment when the car owner forgets there is actually a necessity to have the key on their possession and attempt to open the doors while the key is still resting on their kitchen table. Despite my criticisms and the aforementioned security issues raised from the investigations, the National Insurance Crime Bureau has credited smart keys for the 7% reduction in car theft since 2009.

Quick round-up of a keyless entry system

How do you open the vehicle’s doors? By simply walking up to the door and pulling the handle How do you lock the vehicle? Either walk out of range or tap a button on the door handle How do you start the car? By either pushing a button on the dash panel or turning the smart key in the dash slot. When were PKE keys first introduced? In 1998, by Siemens for Mercedes-Benz. Which manufactures use PKE car keys and what are they called? Acura – Keyless Access System; Audi – Advanced Key;  BMW – Comfort Access; Cadillac – Adaptive Remote Start & Keyless Access;  Dodge – Keyless Enter-N-Go™; Ford – Intelligent Access with push-button start; General Motors – Passive Entry Passive Start; Honda – Smart Entry System; Hyundai – Proximity Key; Infiniti – Infiniti Intelligent Key with Push Button ignition; Jaguar  – Smart Key System; Jeep – Keyless Enter-N-Go™; KIA – Smart Key System; Lexus – SmartAccess System; Lincoln – Intelligent Access System; Mazda – Advanced Keyless Entry & Start System; Mercedes-Benz – Keyless Go; Mini – Comfort Access Mitsubishi Motors – FastKey; Nissan – Nissan Intelligent Key®; Porsche – Porsche Entry & Drive System; Renault – Hands Free Keycard; Ssang Yong – Smart Key System; Subaru – Keyless Smart Entry With Push-Button Start; Suzuki – SmartPass Keyless entry & starting system; Toyota – Smart Key System; Volkswagen – Keyless Entry & Keyless Start or KESSY; Volvo – Personal Car Communicator “PCC” and Keyless Drive or Keyless Drive. Aston Martin's Car Key is called an Emotional Control Unit (2013, The Car Expert)

Cruise control and how to use it to your advantage

Cruise control is often intimidating for drivers who have never used it, as when they take their foot off the accelerator and the car doesn’t slow down, they feel like they are no longer in control of the car. Once you become familiar with how cruise control works and get used to it, you may find it a real benefit to your driving.

Your car’s cruise control function can make longer journeys more comfortable and can even help to save money on fuel. In addition, the cruise control feature will allow you to maintain your speed limit and avoid speeding fines.

Cruise control is primarily suited for those who are going to be driving at a steady speed of at least 30 mph without constant stopping – so, on a motorway or highway rather than on a street with frequent traffic lights.

Each car has a slightly different layout for the cruise control controls, but they are usually located on the steering wheel or a column stalk behind the steering wheel. The main controls are ‘Set’, ‘Cancel’, ‘Resume’ and ‘On/Off’.

You can usually adjust the programmed speed up or down using the same buttons – check your owner’s manual for specific instructions for your car. To initiate cruise control for your car, you must first accelerate to the desired speed over 30 mph – then press ‘Set’. Your car will now maintain its current speed without the need to keep your foot on the accelerator.

Turning off cruise control is as simple as applying the brake, pressing the ‘Cancel’ or ‘On/Off’ buttons or pushing the clutch pedal in a manual car. The feature is set up so that even a gentle tap of the brake pedal will shut cruise control off – requiring you to control the speed using your gas pedal again.

Most cars’ cruise control systems will allow you to return to your previously programmed speed by pressing ‘Resume’. With cruise control, you can rest easy knowing that you can comfortably take that long-distance drive without putting strain on your legs.

Some of the advantages of using your car’s cruise control include:

Cruise control improves your comfort while driving

You can comfortably take long road trips, or drive distances over 30 mph without putting strain on your legs through having to hold your foot in a set position for extended periods to manually control the gas pedal and speed.

With cruise control activated, you can sit back, relax your right leg, and steer your vehicle. When you need to slow down or stop, simply tap the brakes to deactivate.

Cruise control gives you better control over your speed

If you’re one who’s heavy on the gas pedal or has a habit of speeding – the cruise control feature can be your best friend. Activate this feature to maintain the speed limit, and avoid those expensive speeding tickets.

It also prevents you from creeping over the speed limit accidentally. When the speed limits change, you can easily adjust your cruise control settings to match – as long as it’s more than 30 mph.

Cruise control can improve your fuel consumption

Keeping your driving speeds steady can help you save money on fill-ups. Most drivers are fairly inconsistent at maintaining a given speed, instead of creeping up and drifting down as you drive along a road as you manually adjust relative to the speed limit and road conditions such as hills. Accelerating and braking continuously will use considerably more fuel than maintaining a set speed.

Faster drivers can save money on fuel by not speeding and then over-using the brakes to regularly come back down to the speed limit or slow down for other drivers. The faster you drive, the more fuel you will use.

Each 5 mph over 50 mph lowers the mileage that one can expect to get per gallon. Get into the habit of using cruise control to curb any aggressive driving tendencies.

Cruise control can work to your advantage in a variety of ways. Be sure to read your car’s user manual for specific details on how to operate your vehicle’s cruise control feature. Also remember that when using cruise control, you won’t have to control your accelerator – but you still must control the brake pedal at all times. In addition, the brake pedal will disable cruise control, so be aware if the brake pedal is accidentally hit or pressed while driving.

Cruise control can save you money on fuel - TheCarExpert.co.uk

You should also read: How well do you know your dashboard warning lights?

Logbook loans – and why you should avoid them

One of the growing types of sub-prime finance in the UK is what is known as a ‘logbook loan’. The lenders claim that logbook loans are an “easy, fast and hassle-free solution to your financial needs”. But by looking a little deeper, we find that there are significant drawbacks to taking out a logbook loan. In essence, you surrender ownership of your car to a finance company in return for a short-term loan of money at a massive rate of interest. It is one step up from the much-derided payday loans which exploit financially vulnerable people who want money quickly.

What is a logbook loan?

Logbook loan signA payday loan is an unsecured short-term loan, which means credit checks and the likelihood of being rejected if you have adverse credit history. The principle of a logbook loan is that of a secured short-term loan – with your car as security – so the lender doesn’t have to conduct those pesky credit checks to see if the borrower is likely to ever repay the loan. With a logbook loan, the lender (not a well-known high street bank, by the way, but a lender you will have never heard of and will probably have difficulty tracing) takes ownership of your vehicle for the duration of the loan and ‘lends’ it back to you to drive until the loan is paid in full. The theory goes that you simply keep driving around in the car while you pay off the loan, and once you have cleared the loan in full the car becomes yours once again.

So what’s the catch with logbook loans?

The main catch is that you sign your car over to the lender in return for borrowing their money, and if you fall behind in your payments then they can repossess and sell your car. On top of that, the rate of interest is frankly horrific. Most logbook loan providers are advertising an APR of nearly 500%. The APR is the Annual Percentage Rate, which includes all of the fees and interest that you pay on the amount borrowed, and helps borrowers to understand how much they will be repaying over the course of a year.

So who owns your car with a logbook loan?

Until you repay your loan in full (plus any charges you may have accumulated during the course of the loan), the lender owns your car. You surrender your vehicle logbook (the car’s registration document) to the lender as part of your loan agreement, and the lender may have the car transferred from your name into theirs. Although you continue to drive the car, if you default on your payments then the lender has the right to repossess and sell your car. The lender does not need a court order to be able to repossess your car. In addition, these charming folk can charge you for the costs associated with repossessing and selling your car. And if the money they get from selling your car doesn’t fully cover the outstanding balance, they can come after you again for the shortfall. The sale of the vehicle does not necessarily put an end to the loan. Now, the lenders generally stress that repossessing your car is a last resort and that they will always try to work with the customer to make alternative arrangements. However, those ‘alternative arrangements’ may include hefty penalty fees and charges if the lender has to call you to remind you to cough up your weekly or monthly payment.

What is an APR and what does it mean?

An APR is a measure of how much it costs to borrow money. It must be quoted by lenders and companies offering any sort of loan or finance (such as mortgages, credit cards, car finance, bank loans, payday loans or logbook loans). The APR includes any fees charged by the lender as well as the interest, spread over the period for which you are borrowing the money. The APR tells you how much your borrowing will cost over the course of a year, as a proportion of the amount you have borrowed. All lenders are required to show the APR and an example of a typical finance repayment schedule to help borrowers understand how much they are expected to repay. For long-term loans, like a mortgage, the fees are spread over a very long period (eg – 25 years), so even if the lender’s fees are high, the APR remains fairly low. For short-term loans like payday loans and logbook loans, the fees are applied over a much shorter period (a payday loan is normally arranged for a period of a few weeks, and a logbook loan may be a few months to a couple of years). Therefore, the fees are spread over a much shorter period and add a relatively large amount to each payment. And those fees are high for logbook loans. Remember, these are small-time lenders offering finance to financially vulnerable borrowers with poor credit histories or poor financial management skills, so there is a high risk that the loan will not be repaid on time or in full. High risk means high fees and high interest. Most logbook lenders are quoting typical APRs of nearly 500%, meaning a loan of £850 means repaying about £2,500.

What is the risk for borrowers?

Logbook loans can easily to lead to your car being repossessedLogbook loans are aimed at people who can’t get a loan from a regular bank, because they don’t have a job or have defaulted on credit agreements in the past. Regardless of whether they were at fault or not for their financial troubles, these people are financially vulnerable in that they need cash fast and have no reserves of their own to pay their bills as they arise. Because the borrowers need (or want) the money urgently and are not able to get funding from more reputable sources, they are left at the mercy of virtually unknown lenders who charge huge fees and rates of interest for access to their loans. In addition, the conditions can be so strict that any failure to keep up the required payments (eg – another unexpected and urgent expense) can result in severe financial penalties, which make paying off the loan virtually impossible for the borrower. Eventually, the car gets repossessed or the borrower voluntarily surrenders it to the lender to try and settle the loan. The borrower’s credit history takes a further hit, which makes it even harder to get a loan in the future. You would probably be better off selling your car in the first place to avoid having to take out the logbook loan at all. Despite the websites that would have you believe that logbook loans are a simple and effective way to meet your financial needs, the reality is that nobody wants to be left in a position of having to seriously consider taking out a logbook loan. If you can manage your finances without having to take out a logbook loan, you will almost certainly end up better off. Logbook loans often lead to cars being repossessed
Further reading on car finance:
Car finance glossary: A fantastic resource for car buyers, explaining all the terminology used in car finance in the UK. Car finance – what you should know: The Car Expert explains the different types of car finance available for new and used cars.

Dacia Sandero review

What is it: Budget supermini, backed by Renault
Key features: Spacious, quality far above basement price
Our view: The Dacia Sandero is a thoroughly competent supermini that performs way above its price.


Dacia is in many ways the brand of the moment – acquired by Renault in 1999, the Romanian budget marque is now being launched into the UK by its guardian – and in the process providing a bright spot in difficult times for the French state brand.

Dacia Sandero interior

The launch model, the Duster SUV, received positive reviews, especially considering it costs from a mere £8,995. And now Dacia has a real attention-grabbing headline in the Sandero – a brand new supermini for under £6,000?

Actually the starting price – £5,995 – is not quite all it might seem to be, as we’ll see shortly. But equally, it’s by no means the only reason buyers should be looking at this car – it’s a lot more than its price.

UK journalists had their first driving experience of the Dacia Sandero at the same event that they first sat in the new Renault Clio – which at first glance might seem like Renault scoring an own goal.

The marketing man justified this move with the suggestion that Renault is moving into more expressive, Latin territory, while Dacia is fulfilling the more Germanic, functional role – the name Volkswagen was mentioned more than once…

You know what? He wasn’t far wrong… From the outside the car looks, well like many other superminis on today’s market. It’s not head-turning, particularly memorable, but that’s also a positive – it says mainstream car, it doesn’t say budget car.

And when one slips behind the wheel of the Sandero, the immediate impression is of a well put-together, no frills supermini. The joins are good, the plastics not too hard to the touch – it really did remind me of some German-owned cars I’ve driven.

The other big plus on the inside is the space. It doesn’t look a massive car from the exterior, but it outstretches its rivals in several key areas – shoulder and elbow room for example, rear knee room, and particularly bootspace. It’s 320 litres (most rivals struggle to beat 300) and rises to 1,200 with the rear seats folded.

There are three engine options – a 1.2-litre four-cylinder petrol, the three-cylinder 900cc petrol familiar from recent Renault models, and a 1.5-litre diesel. The Car Expert drove the two petrol engines – diesels remain a niche buy in supermini land.

Dacia management believes that around half of the Sandero buyers will choose the 1.2 unit of 74bhp. We’re guessing that’s due to cost – there’s a trim level and £1,400 between separating the cheapest versions of the two units. Having driven both, a car fitted with the smaller but more powerful and thus quicker TCe 90 is by far a much more enjoyable experience.

The 1.2 is adequate – but only so. The 14.5 seconds it takes to get to 62mph feels laboured, whereas the 89 horses of the little TCe 90 propel it enthusiastically through the mark in a tad over 11 seconds.

Neither feels quite as refined as their perceived more upmarket rivals – something which does become obvious if immediately after driving the Dacia Sandero one jumps into one of those rivals, such as the Clio. Maybe it’s a case of extra soundproofing, more time, and money, spent on the motor industry nemesis Noise Vibration and Harshness. But, the Sandero is not bad in this area, and most owners will be quite happy with it.

On the road the car handles with competence and predictability. There’s nothing stand-out here, but there’s no reason for it to be – the Sandero is a very easy to live with car, which is all many (most?) supermini owners will want. And then we get to the price…

We mentioned that the £5,995 was not all it seemed. It gets you the entry-level Access with the 1.2 engine. It comes with the essentials, airbags, electronic Stability Control, but little else – you don’t even get a radio. And you can only have it in white with big black bumpers (see below) – even Dacia insiders dub it their ‘UN vehicle’…

dacia-sandero-02

Far better is to go for the Ambience, £6,595 with the 1.2, £7,395 with the TCe 90. Now the bumpers match the body, you can have it not in white, and you get more kit, topped by remote central locking, electric front winds and yes, a CD radio with MP3 capability, Bluetooth and and Aux socket.

So far, Dacia has seen most buyers choosing the top spec Laureate grade, which adds rather a lot to the list. Notable among them are lots of extra styling, leather on the steering wheel and gearknob, a trip computer, cruise control, heated electric mirrors, fog lights, and vitally, manual air conditioning.

To buy a Dacia Sandero Laureate with the 1.2 engine will cost you £7,995 – two grand more than that under 6K headline grabber. With the more desirable TCe 90, it’s £8,795.

But – and it’s a big but… The cheapest new Clio – with the same 1.2 engine and admittedly with much of the equipment you get on the top-spec Sandero (like a trip computer, and a sound system…) costs £10,595 – more than £2,500 more.

So what we have here is a thoroughly competent supermini, that in many ways performs way above its price. We think several previous used car buyers are going to become new car buyers, and that Dacia is going to sell a fair few Sanderos… 

Dacia Sandero – key specifications

Model Tested: Dacia Sandero TCe 90, 1.2 16v 75
On Sale: January 2013
Price: £5,995-£9,795
Engine: Petrol 1.2/898cc, Diesel 1.5
Power (bhp): 74/89, 89
Torque (lb/ft): 79/100, 162
0-62mph (sec): 14.5/11.1, 12.1
Top speed (mph): 97/109, 107
Fuel economy (combined, mpg): 47.9/54.3, 74.3
CO2 emissions (g/km): 137/120, 99
Key rivals: Ford Fiesta, Vauxhall Corsa, Volkswagen Polo
Test date: February 2013

Who can and should service my car?

3
In a previous article, we looked at the law regarding servicing of a new car, and whether or not you can take your new car to an independent garage for servicing without invalidating your warranty (short answer: yes, you can). However, Garry from St Helen’s has asked about a similar but different situation, in that he tried to have a Ford dealership investigate what he thought was a simple problem on his Jaguar but they refused, claiming they didn’t have the correct tools: “We all know that for many many years, in fact decades, dealerships monopolised their brand of vehicle for repair when it was out of warranty. For instance, if you had a 5-year-old Jaguar and needed something as simple as new brakes pads, handbrake cable etc, then NO other garage would touch it, you HAD to take it to a Jaguar dealership & vice versa for Ford, Merc, Fiat, etc etc, it was a gentlemen’s’ agreement. Now I remember reading somewhere that this was now illegal under an EU directive that has recently come in (well maybe last couple of years).   “Am I correct or have I got my wires crossed somewhere? I ask this because my nearest Jaguar dealership is in another town to me so I rang Ford’s National Helpdesk to ask if the Ford garage in my town could do an investigation to find out why my Jag is losing coolant. It was booked in, but when I arrived at the dealership this morning the guy said that they didn’t have the right pressure testing equipment for a Jag. “So when they get a Jag in as a part exchange and sell it on their forecourt, do they not work on it? This was blatantly and obviously a lie, and I was wondering if I am correct in the new EU directive as his advice was to take it to a Jaguar dealership. If I am right, how can I make a complaint and to which authority?”

The EU’s rules on car service and repair

The EU directive to which Garry is referring is the European Commission’s Block Exemption Regulation. The purpose of this regulation was to increase competition for servicing and repair of vehicles and stopped car manufacturers forcing customers to use their franchised garages for servicing to preserve their new car warranty. But Garry’s question is basically the reverse: is a garage obliged to work on any make and model of car? The Block Exemption Regulation does not force a garage to service all makes and models, so if a Ford dealer (for example) chooses to only service Ford vehicles and no other cars, then they are perfectly allowed to do so. Most franchised dealers will concentrate on only the brands that they sell for a few reasons:
  • the technicians are trained on those specific brands and models, so they are (theoretically!) experts at maintaining those types of cars. Modern cars are very complicated and usually highly specific, so they require specialist knowledge. Usually, the training programs provided by the manufacturers are comprehensive and expensive, so dealers will only pay for their mechanics to receive training on the cars that the dealer intends to service (ie – the same ones they sell).
  • there are a large number of specialist tools which need to be used on many cars, which the manufacturer provides (at a price) to its approved service centres. If the garage does not have the tools, they usually can’t do the service or repair. As every car has different designs and locations for various parts and systems, generic tools do not always work.  This is possibly the case for Garry’s Jaguar (or it could be that the Ford garage simply doesn’t want to do it for any of these other reasons).
  • the garage has a duty of care to ensure that the vehicle is correctly serviced, and will not want to risk a dangerous situation or any litigation from a customer if they fail to correctly service or repair a car for which they do not have the correct tools and specifically-trained technicians.
  • if a garage is not set up to service or repair a particular car (eg – a Ford garage trying to service a Jaguar), it will usually take them longer to do the job and prevent the garage from attending to other customers’ cars, potentially reducing their income.

Buying a used car from another brand’s dealership

To answer Garry’s question about a dealer taking another brand’s car as a part-exchange to sell from their site (eg – a Ford dealer selling a used Jaguar), they will usually only do a basic inspection and check (fluid levels, brake pads, etc.) rather than a service or major repair. If more extensive work is required and the garage does not have the expertise or equipment, the Ford dealer would usually send the car down the road to the nearest Jaguar dealership or independent Jaguar specialist to have the work done. Based on this situation, there are no grounds to complain to the Office of Fair Trading or anyone else, as the Ford dealer cannot be forced to work on Garry’s Jaguar. It is entirely up to the dealership to decide whether they want to take his money or decline the work. It appears that the booking was made via Ford’s central call centre without checking if the dealership was equipped or willing to actually undertake the work. When Garry arrived, the reason given was that the dealership lacked the correct tools to do the job, which may well have been true. Alternatively, they may have just decided that it wasn’t worth the risk and hassle and been looking for an excuse to decline the work without looking lazy.

Expert service, advice and equipment for your car

Unfortunately, Garry’s local Jaguar dealer closed a few years ago and he has no dealer or specialist garage located in his town. Despite the inconvenience, his best bet is probably still to take the car to either an authorised Jaguar service centre or to an independent Jaguar specialist in the nearest town. If the problem is a relatively common one for his particular model, it is likely that they will have already dealt with other cars before and will know how to fix it as quickly as possible. Their specialist knowledge, training and equipment will probably more than make up for the inconvenience of having to travel further to get there.
Further reading on car servicing
Do I have to have my car serviced by the dealership? There is still considerable confusion among car owners about the servicing requirements for their cars and what is required for them to protect their new car warranty. How to avoid a car breakdown: Getting your car properly and regularly serviced is one of the most important ways you can reduce the chance of being left on the hard shoulder with a broken-down car. Choose the right garage to service and repair your car - The Car Expert Was this article helpful?  Help The Car Expert by sharing it with your friends on Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, Google+, StumbleUpon or any other social media network!

How to avoid the dreaded car breakdown

A car breakdown can be pretty annoying, to say the least. You’re in the middle of town after an exhausting shopping trip, you’re ready to get home for a cuppa and… your car won’t start. As annoying as they are, many a car breakdown could be avoided if you take a few simple measures. In a nutshell, treat your owner’s handbook like the bible and keep the car professionally maintained.  In addition, here are our top tips of some basic thing you can do to avoid a car breakdown and keep your machine running like a dream.

Service intervals

Make sure you are aware of the recommended manufacturer service intervals for your car, and get your car serviced with the appropriate service (major or minor) when your manufacturer recommends you should. A car breakdown can easily result if you car is not maintained according to schedule.

Fully functioning dashboard warning lights

With most cars, the key warning lights should all come on when you turn the car’s ignition on. Check your owner’s handbook to see otherwise.

Water and oil levels

You need to check these are at the correct level. Make sure you have the anti-freeze content of the cooling system checked regularly, especially in winter.

Battery levels

If you have an old-style unsealed car battery, check the water levels carefully and top up with distilled water if required. Check battery connections ensuring they are free from corrosion. Also be careful of battery acid as this can corrode the skin. Most modern car batteries are sealed units, so this is less of an issue these days.

Inspect your toolkit

You should be confident using the spare wheel, jack and wheel brace, and they should always be present in your car.

Tyres

You should check the tread depth (minimum legal requirement is 1.6mm tread depth) and pressure. Check your owner’s handbook for recommended tyre pressures. They should also be clearly printed on a plaque, usually inside the driver’s door.

Remote key fob

You will normally need to change the batteries twice a year to maintain optimum performance from your remote car key. Depending on your car, you may still be able to get into and start your car even if the battery has died. Young girl having a car breakdown Of course, even after all that, you could still end up with a car breakdown. Your car may be a very stubborn thing, but these tips could help you out in some worst-case scenarios when you’re stranded by the side of the road:

Warning light iIlluminated

Don’t ignore warning lights! Park in a safe place as soon as possible and find out what the light means. Your owner’s handbook will give details. If, for example, your car is overheating and you ignore the warning light, this could result in a very costly job to fix the engine.

Flat battery

The leading cause of car breakdown is a flat battery. If you do come to your car and the battery is flat you may still be able to get it started. If the engine tries to turn over but wont start, leave it. Leaving the battery for 20 minutes may just give it enough time to regain enough power to start. It is important to turn off all devices, however, (eg – car radio) and try not to turn it on for those 20 minutes.

Flooded engine

If your engine turns over quickly but won’t start, there could be an excess of fuel in the engine. Try pressing your foot on the accelerator as far as it will go and crank the engine for 15-20 seconds. This should give enough time for the engine to clear.

Diesel engine cold start

Once you turn the ignition on in your vehicle be sure that the glow light has turned off before you start to crank the engine until it starts. This is less of an issue with new diesel cars and mainly confined to older models.

Water leaks

Don’t be immediately alarmed if you find a small pool of water under your car. If your car is fitted with air conditioning, it is probably water from system condensation and is perfectly normal. If your car is not fitted with air conditioning or the water has a blue or green colour, it is probably from the radiator or coolant system and it could be a coolant leak. Do not attempt to drive the vehicle and seek professional advice.

Lost keys

Many people lose keys or accidentally lock their keys in the car. If you don’t have a spare set, get one cut and keep it in a safe place (but not in the car). Many modern cars require at least one set of keys to be able to create a spare set, so if you lose both sets of keys you could be in real trouble. These simple tips will help you deal with the most common causes of car breakdown.  Prevention is always better than cure, so if you keep your car in top condition then the chances of you suffering a car breakdown will be greatly reduced. Car breakdown in the mountains Was this article helpful?  Help The Car Expert by sharing it with your friends on Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, Google+, StumbleUpon or any other social media network!

Add flair to your car with custom alloy wheels

Having a stylish set of rims for your car can improve its looks and personalise it to your own sense of style. For those seeking to customise the look of their vehicle, a new set of alloy wheels is a quick and easy way to enhance its appearance as well as improving how your car drives. You can find trendy aftermarket wheels in numerous finishes, with colours like white, black, grey and anthracite offering an alternative to the more traditional silver and chrome. There are many different kinds of designs available from many different manufacturers of alloy wheels. When considering any set of custom rims, it is necessary to choose carefully to ensure that they do not affect your vehicle’s performance or safety.  Here are some top tips on choosing a new set of alloy wheels.

Alloy wheels can improve your car’s performance

  • Most aftermarket wheels are made of aluminium alloy because they are much lighter than steel wheels, which can improve the car’s ride, handling and steering.
  • Custom alloy wheels can offer the benefit of reduced tyre defection and tyre rollover. Their aluminum construction helps to dissipate heat from the wheels which is particularly generated under braking.
  • Very open design wheels, such as many 5-spoke or 6-spoke wheels, allow good airflow over the brakes thus cooling them significantly to preventing overheating.
  • It is important not to fit wheels which are significantly heavier as they may not be properly supported by the car’s suspension, which will not give a smooth ride and will affect handling.

Custom alloy wheels can improve almost any car - even this Lamborghini Aventador - a true supercar

Size matters with alloy wheels

  • Most owners upgrading their wheels usually choose larger rims than the standard wheels originally fitted to the car.  At the same time, you should not choose wheels that are too big for your car, as this can decrease your vehicle’s handling.  Many countries have legal limitations on how much you can increase the wheel size compared to standard.
  • Fitting larger wheels to your car will require new tyres as well.  A good time to change your wheels is when your tyres have worn down and are due for replacement.

Quality and fitment of your alloy wheels

  • Quality of construction is of paramount importance.  Like most things, you will get what you pay for with aftermarket wheels, and cheap wheels may be poorly constructed and prone to breaking.  Check out a well-established store that gives quality products at reasonable rates.
  • Ensure that the wheels’ bolt pattern and offset are compatible with your car.  There is considerable variation across different cars, so there is no guarantee that your preferred wheel design will fit your car.
  • Check if the wheel’s maximum load rating is suitable for your vehicle.
  • With regards to construction material, it is better to choose a low-pressure cast or forged aluminum wheel design. This is because they weigh less and are more durable.
  • Consult the wheel retailer for advice.  A good retailer will want to ensure that the wheels you buy are suitable for your car, and will be able to answer any questions you have.
  Check up on all of these points and you can be sure of adding flair to your vehicle with a lovely set of custom alloy wheels that match your driving habits, improve your car’s style, give you better performance and do not compromise your safety.

Further reading on alloy wheels:

Alloy wheels – are they the real deal?The Car Expert explores alloy wheels and how they affect the way your car drives. Do big alloy wheels crack more easily?The Car Expert answer’s a reader’s question about fragility of big alloys.

Best cars of the year – the highlights of 2012

Cars are getting better and better each year, even though the industry itself is struggling.  It’s easy to take this for granted, but even in such a competitive field, these cars and car makers have stood out from the pack and deserve their highly-sought-after Best Cars Of The Year status from The Car Expert.

Surprisingly good – Toyota GT86

The Toyota GT86 is undoubtedly one of the best cars of the year
The Toyota GT86 is considered fractionally better than its twin, the Subaru BRX

When you think of companies that make great sports cars, the name Toyota doesn’t readily spring to mind.  But the GT86 is a genuinely great sports car.

In fairness, Toyota had a lot of help – the majority of the work was done by Subaru, who sell their own version of the car called the BRX. They are both excellent, but the majority of UK road testers have preferred the Toyota version’s ride and handling set-up to its Subaru twin.

Most Improved Carmaker – Kia

Kia deserves its place among the best cars of the year for 2012
Believe it or not, this is a Kia. They’ve come a long way.

Even just a couple of years ago, the Kia model range was pretty mediocre, with virtually nothing to recommend it compared to its rivals.

Yet the last 18 months has seen almost a complete overhaul of the range, with several new models being launched which genuinely challenge the big names and look good to boot. The Kia Optima is a case in point; it could teach BMW a few lessons in how to make a saloon look good.

Best supercar – Ferrari F12

The Ferrari F12 is definitely one of the best cars of the year
The latest in a long line of fantastic Ferrari V12 coupés, the stunning new F12

The Ferrari 599 was, by any objective standards, a great car and one of the best GTs in Ferrari’s glorious history. Yet its replacement, the brand-new F12, is a massive leap forward. All who have driven it have been seriously impressed by how high Ferrari has raised the bar with its new flagship GT.

Ferrari has well and truly left the old days behind. No longer do people desire a Ferrari despite the many flaws and compromises; these days, Ferrari is setting the standards for the supercar industry, and making most of its rivals look like dinosaurs (*cough* Aston Martin *cough*).

Best-looking Estate – Jaguar XF Sportbrake

The Jaguar XF Sportbrake is one of the best cars of the year
The Jaguar XF ‘Sportbrake” estate – silly name, serious car.

Other than its daft ‘Sportbrake’ name, there’s really not a lot to dislike about Jaguar’s new XF estate.

The XF was originally designed as a saloon only, with an estate version never envisaged, so it took a fair amount of design dexterity to conjure up a car which is both functional and pretty. Although the jury is still out on the blacked-out rear pillars, so maybe you should just buy one in black so they’re not as noticeable.

Best-looking SUV/Crossover/4×4 – Mazda CX-5

The Mazda CX-5 is one of the best cars of the year
Even without the big wheels and matte wrapping, the Mazda CX-5 is a great car

The traditional concept of a 4×4 has been turned on its head in recent years, as more and more car makers rush to build cars which look like tough off-roaders but are really not designed to cope with anything more challenging than a gravel driveway or mildly large speed humps.

And some of the design decisions for this new wave of soft-roaders have been quite bizarre (BMW X1, new Honda CR-V, Mini Countryman, Nissan Juke, anything by SsangYong). Against this lot, the new Mazda CX-5 is a refreshing application of good design and a very competent car to go with it.

Mazda’s ‘SkyActiv’ approach to efficient engines and lightweight construction is laudable too, in a world of cars which are getting forever bigger and heavier.

Best facelift – Ford Fiesta and Focus

The Ford Focus and Fiesta are two of the best cars of the year
The facelifted Ford Focus ST (left) and Fiesta (right). Better-looking than the originals.

They may have blatantly stolen Aston Martin’s famous grille design, but Ford’s designers have managed to make it work very well on the updated Fiesta and Focus models, which now have a more sophisticated appearance than their original versions.

Best concept car – Infiniti Emerg-e

The Infiniti emerg-e is one of the best concept cars of the year
Dear Infiniti, please build this car. And then give me one to road test. Sincerely, The Car Expert.

Infiniti, which is Nissan’s answer to Toyota’s Lexus luxury brand, has never really made great inroads in Europe. But if they build the brilliant-looking Emerg-e sports car, that could change.

It’s a range-extender-electric vehicle, with two motors powering the rear wheels to amazing speeds while still beating London’s Congestion Charge. Even though you’ve said you won’t, please, please, Infiniti, build this car.

Best racing car – BMW M3 DTM

The BMW M3 DTM is one of the best racing cars of the year
The BMW M3 won the German DTM championship in its first year, against top competition from Mercedes and Audi.

The DTM (German Touring Car Championship) is one of the most fiercely-contested racing series in the world, and for the last few years has been a straight fight between Audi and Mercedes-Benz.

But for 2012, the other big German premium brand stepped up to challenge.  Far from being a steady introduction to the series, BMW promptly won the championship at their first attempt with the M3 DTM.

Despite the ‘M3’ bit in the name, the car shares approximately nothing with the road-going BMW M3 coupé, and is based around a purpose-built racing chassis. Still looks amazing, though, and certainly shocked the teams from Mercedes and Audi.

Top of the Christmas list – Pagani Huayra

The Pagani Huayra is definitely one the of best cars of the year for 2012.
Is this the coolest car in the world today? The Pagani Huayra

It may not be as sophisticated and easy to handle as Ferrari’s new F12, but the Pagani Huayra (pronounced why-ra) is the ultimate hypercar poster car for 2012.

Stunning looks, gullwing doors, fantastic and brutal performance, and a rarity that Ferrari left behind decades ago – the Pagani is a true dream car.

Related Post: The worst cars of the year? 2012’s least-inspiring efforts.

Worst cars of the year? 2012’s least-inspiring efforts

Like the Razzies before the Oscars, it’s time to look at the automotive lowlights of 2012 and hope that the car industry learns from these experiences to make a better motoring future for us all (of course, pigs might start flying too), before we move on later this week to celebrate the best that the year had to offer.  

While it might be unfair to describe these as the worst cars of the year (in fact, some of them are really rather good), they are all still underwhelming in one way or another.

Plus, we recognise the entirely unsurprising demise of the car industry’s most infamous leader.

Unexpectedly ugly – Audi Q3

Audi's entrant for ugliest cars of the year is the new Q3
Audi Q3 – looks like an origami roller skate

It’s said that even great artists can have a bad day.  Well, it certainly applies to Audi with the new Q3.  Audi’s designs are normally smooth and slick – even if their cars do tend to all look alike, they are usually exceptionally well executed and finely detailed.

The Q3, however, is visually the runt of the Audi litter.  It’s proportions are awkward and unless you option huge wheels when you order one (which will ruin the ride), it looks a bit like an old-school roller skate.

Even with big wheels, it still looks like an Audi A3 on stilts, so you may as well just get a new A3 and enjoy a car with similar room but better economy and performance for less money.

Unsurprisingly ugly – Mini Paceman / Mini Coupé

MINI - always an entrant in Ugliest Cars Of The Year
Mini – stretching the badge’s credibility with these offerings

BMW has spent the last decade trying to build a whole car company out of the image of one model, and the current range of Minis reflects the inevitable problem with that approach – it’s impossible to make a 4.1m-long, bulky 4×4 coupé (the Paceman) look anything like a small hatchback from the 1960s.

BMW’s first Mini, launched in 2001, was a good-looking car and a spectacular success.  Its successor, launched in 2006, just managed to retain enough of the original Mini’s appearance and proportions to justify the name.

But ever since then, BMW has struggled to broaden the range while keeping any semblance of resemblance to the car which gave its name to the whole company.  Their latest efforts (Countryman, Paceman, Coupé) are astonishingly ugly vehicles with considerable limitations compared to their competition, and are surely heavily dependent on people’s association of the name with the original.

How much longer can that last, especially since Mini is rumoured to be adding a five-door hatch, an MPV and a saloon to the range in coming years?

Why are we here again? – SEAT

Are SEATS among the most pointless cars of the year for 2012?
The SEAT Ibiza – it’s not bad, but why not just buy a Polo?

The Volkswagen Group is a massive organisation, comprising the VW, Audi, Škoda, SEAT, Lamborghini, Bentley, Bugatti and Porsche car brands.  Out of all of those, SEAT is the one brand that seems to have no real purpose for existing.

One of SEAT’s roles is to sit under VW as a budget brand, which is a job being done much better by fellow family member Škoda.  It was then suggested that SEAT would be a sporty brand in the Alfa Romeo mould, yet its range is notably unsporty and uninspiring.

There is not one model in the SEAT range which is any better than other comparable cars in the Volkswagen family, so why bother having the brand at all?

Pointless TOWIE design detailing – Range Rover

Range-Rover-door-vents-worst-cars-of-the-year-2012
Who put those fake door vent things there? Has Posh Spice been let loose in the design studio again?

Whilst it is apparently a very fine car to drive or be driven in, it’s a pity that the Land Rover design team managed to make their new Range Rover flagship look even more chintzy than the old one.

Over the decade of the previous model’s production cycle, Land Rover took BMW’s original design (BMW owned Land Rover at the time) and progressively blinged it up with lashings of chrome and fairy lights.

The new Range Rover picks up where the old one left off, with even more bling, but the most pointless detail is surely the huge trio of vertical lines on the front doors, which serve no function whatsoever but are supposed to represent the air vents from the previous model. Chavtacular.

The Golden Photocopier award – Volkswagen Golf

cars of the year - Golden Photocopier Award - VW Golf
Can you tell which VW is the Golf and which is the Polo?

Having been held by Audi for many years, this award has moved to parent company Volkswagen for 2012.

The VW Golf has been the benchmark for smallish hatchbacks for nearly 40 years now, and the new model recently launched looks set to continue the tradition.

Volkswagen is traditionally conservative in designing each new Golf, but the new model has taken this to new lengths. Not only does the new Golf look very similar to the old one, it also seems that VW has taken the blueprints for the Polo and simply enlarged them by 1.25x.

Ugliest concept car – Bentley EXP 9F

Bentley EXP-9F, one of the ugliest cars of the year. Any year.
Bentley EXP-9F concept: The Elephant Man of SUVs

Not just the ugliest concept car seen in 2012, but possibly the ugliest ever, was undoubtedly the Bentley EXP 9F 4×4.  Bentley’s idea for taking on the Range Rover in the overpriced luxury SUV market was a tank-like design apparently drawn by a nine-year-old.

Fortunately, Bentley’s overlords at Volkswagen appear to have taken heed of worldwide derision for the EXP 9F’s looks, and it is being substantially redesigned for production.

Ugliest modified car – Mansory Mercedes CLS

worst cars of the year - Mansory Mercedes CLS - ugliest modified car 2012
Not exactly what Mercedes-Benz designers had in mind

Mansory are renowned for their, er, dramatic modifications of prestige vehicles, and 2012 was no exception. With bodykits for the Lamborghini Aventador, Bentley Continental GT and McLaren MP4-12C being unveiled this year, Mansory are able to uglify almost any exotic car you can imagine.

But their assault on the Mercedes-Benz CLS narrowly edges their other efforts to be the ugliest of them all.  Truly awful.

Unsurprisingly sacked – Dany Bahar, ex-CEO of Lotus

Dany-Bahar-disaster-cars-of-the-year-2012
“And next, we plan to build 43 new models and sponsor every racing team in the world”

If Lotus fails to survive its latest perilous financial situation, historians will no doubt hold Dany Bahar largely responsible. Whether or not that’s fair, he certainly presented the motoring world with a big enough target in less than three years as CEO.

Recruited for his supposed marketing expertise after spells in brand marketing roles at Red Bull and Ferrari, it became quite clear that Bahar had no idea how to run a car company, let alone rescue one which had been slowly sliding towards oblivion for several years.

While few in the motoring media wanted to jeopardise their relationship with Lotus and be denied free loan cars by printing doubts or criticisms, others had less hesitation in pointing out that launching six brand new concept cars when you had no money to build any of them was more than a little foolish. As was spending money sponsoring racing teams in a multitude of categories, none of which were running Lotus cars (the Lotus F1 team, for example, has absolutely nothing to do with Lotus Cars).

Embarrassingly, the Lotus Indycars had to be black flagged from the Indy 500 in May for being so slow that they were endangering the other cars.

Never has a car company’s image been so tarnished as Lotus under Bahar’s reign. Very few people seem to have been disappointed when the Malaysian owners of Lotus finally pulled the trigger and sent him packing.

Well, now that we have the worst aspects of 2012 out of the way, click here to read about the best cars of the year here at The Car Expert!

The five worst driving habits in the UK

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Do you have any bad driving habits?  Most people will tell you that they are good drivers. In fact, some sources suggest that up to 90% of drivers think they are a ‘good’ driver. Another study found that 93% of Americans thought they would rank in the top 50% for driving skill. So why do I always seem to be sharing the road with the rubbish 7-10%? Regardless of how you imagine your own driving ability, it is very easy to spot bad driving habits in others. Having spent countless hours sitting alongside complete strangers while they test drive cars, here are The Car Expert’s ‘Five Worst Driving Habits’. This is not about blatant law-breaking activity (drink driving, texting while driving, barrelling through a school zone at 150mph, etc.), but rather the everyday driving habits people seem to develop, either consciously or unconsciously. Although they may seem harmless, most of them do break the law at some point, and can lead to a dangerous situation on the road.

Bad Driving Habit #5: Speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down

Bad Driving Habits #5: Speed up, slow down, speed up, slow down - The Car ExpertIf you use cruise control when you drive, this habit is very easy to spot in others. How many times have you passed someone on a motorway, only to have them come flying past you again a few minutes later? This bad driving habit is also easily found in taxi drivers around the world. For some reason, every minicab driver seems to think that driving consists of slamming his accelerator flat to the floor, only ever taking his foot off to jam it on the brakes. As well as dramatically increasing fuel consumption and brake wear, it can be dangerous if you are leaving no margin for error by having to always brake heavily at the last minute. And let’s not even get started on the generally woeful driving habits and standards of minicab drivers… Next page: People who think they are more important than you

Can you give a car dealer cash?

“Can you give a car dealer cash?”  Asked by an anonymous Google searcher, August 2012

Car dealers are almost always very reluctant to take more than about £500 in actual cash (the paper, folding kind), although the amount will vary from dealer to dealer.

Money laundering has ruined it for everyone

The motor industry has been targeted by money launderers in the last few years, and a few car dealers have been caught out badly when they found out that the thousand of pounds of cash they had been given was counterfeit.  If a car dealer suspects a buyer of possible money laundering or fraud activity, they are required to report it to the police immediately.

The car industry presents a relatively easy target for money laundering and fraud, as a car can be removed from the UK within hours of taking delivery, usually well before the car dealer can get the cash to the bank or before any fraud can be discovered.

Most car dealers no longer accept personal cheques or bank drafts either, as they take several days to clear (up to 10 working days for a personal cheque) and can easily be forged.

How to pay a car dealer by cash for your car

Usually, a car dealer will want you to either pay by debit card on the day, or transfer the amount electronically into their account before you collect your car.  If a car dealer allows you to use a credit card, they will usually require you to pay the credit card merchant fee as well (which can run to hundreds of pounds).

If you are reluctant to transfer your full payment via electronic transfer (BACS or CHAPS) in advance, the best bet is to pay by debit card when you pick up your car.  This will usually involve calling your bank in advance to advise that you intend to make a large transaction very soon, and they may well require you to call and confirm when the transaction is being processed, but it is a safe and secure way of paying for your car from a car dealer.

Do big alloy wheels crack more easily?

“Do big alloy wheels crack more easily?”  Asked by an anonymous Google searcher, August 2012.

For the purposes of this question, we need to assume we are talking about different size alloy wheels on the same car, as you can’t compare smaller wheels on one car with larger wheels on a completely different car.  If you choose larger alloy wheels for your car (for example, going from 16-inch wheels to 18-inch wheels), you need new tyres to fit them, and this can potentially cause cracking of your wheels.

alloy-wheels-ride-handling-performance-the-car-expert

The picture above shows a 15″ alloy wheel (left), 16″ wheel (middle) and 17″ wheel (right).  Despite different size wheels, the overall rolling height (wheel + tyre) is the same.

The law says that, when changing the wheels on your car, the rolling height must stay basically the same (although there is a small tolerance allowed), so fitting larger-diameter wheels to your car require tyres with lower-profile sidewalls, as shown here, to maintain the same overall rolling height.

The tyre sidewall flexes to absorb bumps and impacts, so a tyre with less sidewall (a low profile tyre, like the one on the right) has less ability to flex than a tyre with more sidewall (a high profile tyre, like the one on the left).

The reduced flex on a lower profile tyre means it is less able to absorb shocks and impacts from potholes, kerbs and speed humps, which means that if you give a kerb a big whack, you are more likely to damage the tyres and/or the alloy wheels.  It would take a fair old hit, though, so it may not ever happen to you.

So yes, bigger alloy wheels will potentially crack more easily than a smaller one on the same car.  Or, of course, you could just avoid kerbing your wheels… ;)

Further reading on alloy wheels

The Wheel Deal: Why do some drivers spend thousands of pounds upgrading the wheels on their cars?

Do big alloy wheels crack on potholes or kerbs more easily than small wheels? It's a good question, so let's ask The Car Expert.

Car finance: What you should know

Car finance has become big business. A huge number of new and used car buyers in the UK are making their vehicle purchase on finance of some sort.

It might be in the form of a bank loan, finance from the dealership, leasing, credit card, the trusty ‘Bank of Mum & Dad’, or myriad other forms of finance, but relatively few people actually buy a car with their own cash anymore.

A generation ago, a private car buyer with, say, £8,000 cash to spend would usually have bought a car up to the value of £8,000. Today, that same £8,000 is more likely to be used as a deposit on a car which could be worth many tens of thousands, followed by up to five years of monthly payments.

With various manufacturers and dealers claiming that anywhere between 50% and 95% of car purchases are today being made on finance of some sort, it is not surprising that there are lots of people jumping on the car finance bandwagon to profit from buyers’ desires to have the newest, flashiest car available within their monthly cashflow limits.

The appeal of financing a car is very straightforward; you can buy a car which costs a lot more than you can afford up-front, but can (hopefully) manage in small monthly chunks of cash over a period of time. The problem with car finance is that many buyers don’t realise that they usually end up paying far more than the face value of the car, and they don’t read the fine print of car finance agreements to understand the implications of what they’re signing up for.

For clarification, The Car Expert is neither pro- or anti-finance when buying a car. What you must be wary of, however, are the full implications of financing a car – not just when you buy the car, but over the full term of the finance and even afterwards. The industry is heavily regulated by the FCA (Financial Conduct Authority, formerly the Financial Services Authority), but the FCA can’t make you read documents carefully or force you to make prudent car finance decisions.

You may also like: The Car Expert’s epic car finance glossary 

Car finance – financing through the dealership

For 90% of all new car buyers, and about half of used car buyers, financing the car through the dealership where you are buying the car now the preferred option. There are also often national offers and programs which can make financing the car through the dealer an attractive option.

This blog will focus on the two main types of car finance offered by car dealers for private car buyers: the Hire Purchase (HP) and the Personal Contract Purchase (PCP), with a brief mention of a third, the Lease Purchase (LP). Leasing contracts will be discussed in another blog coming soon.

Hire Purchase (HP)

Car finance - how a hire purchase works - The Car Expert

A hire purchase (HP) is quite like a mortgage on your house; you pay a deposit up-front and then pay the rest off over an agreed period (usually 18-60 months). Once you have made your final payment, the car is officially yours. This is the way that car finance has operated for many years, but is now starting to lose favour against the PCP option below.

There are several benefits to a Hire Purchase. It is simple to understand (deposit plus a number of fixed monthly payments), and the buyer can choose the deposit and the term (number of payments) to suit their needs. You can choose a term of up to five years (60 months), which is longer than most other finance options.

You can usually cancel the agreement at any time if your circumstances change without massive penalties (although the amount owing may be more than your car is worth early on in the agreement term). Usually you will end up paying less in total with an HP than a PCP if you plan to keep the car after the finance is paid off.

The main disadvantage of an HP compared to a PCP is higher monthly payments, meaning the value of the car you can usually afford is less.

An HP is usually best for buyers who; plan to keep their cars for a long time (ie – longer than the finance term), have a large deposit, or want a simple car finance plan with no sting in the tail at the end of the agreement.

Now read this: Car finance – the hire purchase (HP) explained

Personal Contract Purchase (PCP)

Car finance - how a PCP personal contract purchase works - The Car Expert

A PCP is often given other names by manufacturer finance companies (eg – BMW Select, Volkswagen Solutions, Toyota Access, etc.), and is very popular but more complicated than an HP. Most new car finance offers advertised these days are PCPs, and usually a dealer will try and push you towards a PCP over an HP because it is more likely to be better for them.

Like the HP above, you pay a deposit and have monthly payments over a term.  However, the monthly payments are lower and/or the term is shorter (usually a maximum of 48 months) because you are not paying off the whole car.

At the end of the term, there is still a large chunk of the finance unpaid.  This is usually called a GMFV (guaranteed minimum future value). The car finance company guarantees that, within certain conditions, the car will be worth at least as much as the remaining finance owed. This gives you three options:
1)   Give the car back.
2)   Pay out the remaining amount owed (the GMFV) and keep the car.
3)   Part-exchange the car for a new (or newer) one.

The PCP is best suited for people who want a new or near-new car and fully intend to change it at the end of the agreement. For a private buyer, it usually works out cheaper than a lease or contract hire finance product.

You are not tied into going back to the same manufacturer or dealership for your next car, as any dealer can pay out the finance for your car and conclude the agreement on your behalf. It is also good for buyers who want a more expensive car with a lower cashflow than is usually possible with an HP.

The disadvantage of a PCP is that it tends to lock you into a cycle of changing your car every few years to avoid a large payout at the end of the agreement (the GMFV).

Borrowing money to pay out the GMFV and keep the car usually gives you a monthly payment that is very little cheaper than starting again on a new PCP with a new car, so it nearly always sways the owner into replacing it with another car. For this reason, manufacturers and dealers love PCPs because it keeps you coming back every three years, rather than keeping your car for five to ten years or longer.

Now read this: Car finance – the personal contract purchase (PCP) explained

Lease Purchase (LP)

Car finance - how a lease purchase works - The Car Expert

An LP is a bit of a hybrid between an HP and a PCP. You have a deposit and low monthly payments like a PCP, with a large final payment at the end of the agreement. However, unlike a PCP, this final payment (often called a balloon) is not guaranteed.

This means that if your car is worth less than the amount owing and you want to sell/part-exchange it, you would have to pay out any difference (called negative equity) before even thinking about paying a deposit on your next car.

Read the fine print

What is absolutely essential for anyone buying a car on finance is to read the contract and consider it carefully before signing anything. Plenty of people make the mistake of buying a car on finance and then end up being unable to make their monthly payments.

Given that your finance period may last for the next five years, it is critical that you carefully consider what may happen in your life over those next five years. Many heavily-financed sports cars have had to be returned, often with serious financial consequences for the owners, because of unexpected pregnancies!

Always ensure you understand the various finance options being presented to you, and that you are aware of the pros and cons of different car finance products to ensure you are making informed decisions about your money.

Now read this: Before you apply for car finance

Disclaimer
Most car finance agreements in the UK are regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority, and anyone involved in the selling of car finance must be accredited by the FCA. You should always consider the terms and conditions of any agreement carefully before taking out any form of car finance, as you are making a substantial ongoing commitment and there may be significant costs if you change your mind or are unable to meet your commitments at a later date.

*HP, PCP and LP car finance images courtesy Evans Halshaw.

Are diesel cars suitable for city driving?

Following on from previous articles about the differences between petrol and diesel engines, and explaining why your fuel economy doesn’t usually match the official figures for your car, The Car Expert looks more closely at the suitability of diesel cars for use in city driving.

One of the most frequent questions submitted to The Car Expert is “Are diesel cars suitable for city driving?”  The answer is… maybe!

A diesel engine generates its power slightly differently from a petrol engine, and usually yields better economy and load-carrying ability, albeit with less power and a slower response time. This is why buses and trucks usually run on diesel – they are big, heavy vehicles carrying large loads over long distances.

But what about city driving? Does the extra cost of a diesel engine yield savings in running costs for urban drivers or those who only take short journeys?

Diesel in the city – fuel economy

Firstly, short journeys. Any engine is very inefficient when it is cold, so the first 15 minutes or so of any journey will not yield very good fuel consumption regardless of the advertised fuel economy of the vehicle. So if your journey involves a short commute to work or trip to the shops, you will get quite poor fuel economy in either a diesel or petrol car.

Secondly, stop-start driving. Even once your engine has warmed up thoroughly, it is still not operating efficiently if you are constantly accelerating, braking and sitting at traffic lights.

And because a diesel engine tends to lag and be a bit more sluggish off the mark than an equivalent petrol engine, but stronger once it gets up and running, there is a tendency to put your foot down harder to get it to respond and then have to lift off or even brake again to slow it back down as it starts to take off over about 20mph.

This sort of driving uses more fuel than smoothly applying accelerator and brake. It is certainly possible to drive a diesel smoothly, but it takes a bit of practice and constant anticipation. Meanwhile, sitting idling at traffic lights uses fuel regardless of whether its petrol or diesel, so you are simply wasting fuel with both.

Mechanical issues – the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)

Diesel cars built since about 2008 (sometimes earlier) come fitted with a diesel particulate filter (DPF). This device collects the black soot particles you see belching from older diesel engines, especially when the engine is cold. The DPF stores this soot until the filter unit reaches a certain temperature and then proceeds to burn off the soot. It still ends up in the atmosphere, but as much finer, invisible particles rather than ugly black smoke, and is less of a health hazard (allegedly, but this is disputed).

This is good, right? Well, yes, but…

To get the filter trap hot enough to burn off the soot, the engine needs to have been running for at least 15-20 minutes and it then takes another 10-15 minutes to burn the soot and clean the filter.

When DPFs were first launched into the car world, most people didn’t realise this – including the dealers who sold the cars – and so customers were unaware they even had such a device. If the driver does not regularly (ie – about once a week to once a fortnight) go for a drive of at least half an hour, the filter trap clogs up. In addition to not filtering the diesel soot properly, continued or repeated clogging will eventually destroy the filter, requiring a very expensive replacement.

So, if your regular use of your car does not involve a regular drive of 20-30 minutes, you need to make a special trip just to clear your DPF every week or two, which is hardly helping your fuel bills.

Cars built since about 2012-ish usually feature better-designed DPFs and improved engine computer controls which allow faster and more efficient burning off of the soot, so it is now less of a problem than before, but it is still a problematic issue for dealers who have to deal with irate customers objecting to paying hundreds of pounds to replace their DPF when they weren’t made aware of it.

This is even more of an issue for used car buyers who have almost certainly not been given a proper explanation by the dealer and consequently are more likely to run into trouble.

Misfuelling – filling up with the wrong fuel

One other hazard is misfuelling, and it happens a lot more often than you’d think – according to the AA, 150,000 people do it each year, or once every three-and-a-half minutes!

Putting diesel fuel in a petrol engine is very bad news, and putting petrol in a diesel engine is even worse. When switching from one sort of engine to another, such as when you buy a new car or in multi-car households, it is an easy mistake to fill up the tank with the wrong fuel.

Damage caused by mis-fuelling is not normally covered by warranty, so you could be up for thousands of pounds if the engine has been damaged. Even if you don’t destroy your engine, it is still an expensive and time-consuming exercise to have the car towed away, drained and cleaned out before you can drive it again.

This isn’t a problem of diesel engines per se, but if you are considering switching from a petrol car or already have another petrol car in the household, it’s worth keeping in mind.

Summary

All of the above suggests that buying a diesel car for mainly city driving is not a great idea. However, it also depends on your overall mileage and how much load (passengers, luggage, trailers, etc) you are putting on the car.

The very broad advice usually given around the industry is that an annual mileage of over 10,000 miles/year over three years is about the threshold for choosing a diesel car over a similar petrol one. However, it also depends on the type of car you are looking at, how long you’re planning to keep it, what sort of deals you can get on one or the other, and so on.

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Are diesels any good for urban driving? Ask The Car Expert

Volvo V40 review

What is it?
C-segment five-door hatch, Volvo’s first in 20 years

Key features
Lower price/higher spec than rivals, class-leading safety

Our view
This is one Volvo that the Germans should be concerned about.


When journalists arrived for the UK launch of the all-new Volvo V40, also in the car park awaiting evaluation were examples of the car’s direct rivals, the Audi A3 and BMW 1 Series.

Allowing such a direct comparison between the Volvo and its competition is a first as far as this reviewer can recall, and a brave move by the Swedish brand. Clearly, Volvo is confident in its new contender, which it describes as its most important car in 20 years.

The V40 has a lot riding on it. This car, a five-door hatch, will eventually replace both the existing S40 saloon and V50 estate, and is the brand’s first serious contender in the highly competitive C-segment since the 440, last built about 20 years ago…

Volvo’s own management admits that the brand sits in a slightly odd position in the UK market. While pitching itself as a premium brand, it’s not quite regarded on the same page as Audi, BMW or Mercedes-Benz, but it is definitely above the volume market. The V40 will aid that image – appealing mainly to mainstream drivers wanting to move up, but also very much targeting Audi/BMW drivers fancying a change.

The car is a prime weapon in Volvo’s bid to boost its volume beyond the 37,000 it currently sells a year in the UK, towards 50,000. To compare – in the days of the 440, Volvo was selling 80,000 cars a year.

The Volvo V40 is expected to clock up around 12,000 a year, compared to the 10,000 the S40/V50 earned between them. UK boss Nick Connor admits this is conservative, but adds that he isn’t chasing volume for volume’s sake. He is adamant this car must maintain a premium image.

So does it live up to the billing? Well, first impressions are good – in this case, first experiencing the car directly after half an hour in the Audi (admittedly the about-to-be-replaced version of the A3) and the BMW. It’s clear immediately that outside and in, the Volvo is a direct rival to them.

It’s a cliché to recall old boxy Volvos when talking about today’s, but it’s important to emphasise that the V40 is a very smart-looking car equal to if not ahead of its rivals.

The front-end is sharp, the notable styling cue the tapered headlamps clearly evolved from those on the larger S60 saloon. The rear, meanwhile, comes direct from that brand-redefining hatch the C30, with its signature glass tailgate.

Inside is well built and very well styled – something admittedly we’ve got used to in recent Volvos. Dominating the driver’s field of view is the new digital dash, with its speedo that illuminates only the part of the dial that the stalk is aiming at, and its three modes, activated by the interior stalk.

These modes are called ‘Elegant’, ‘Eco’ and ‘Sport’ and offer different parameters and information – the first is rather dull, Eco is cool and blue and we reckon most likely to be left permanently on, while Sport is bright red with your speed shown in large digital numbers in the centre of the dial. Rather neat…

Yet the style is equally signified by detail touches – some of the most frequent praise on the launch event was angled at the rear-view mirror, the simple act of removing the frame adding so much to its style.

One criticism is the handbrake lever that sits to the left of the centre console – clearly a left-hand drive feature that Volvo didn’t bother to change. A minor thing maybe, but if your front-seat passenger is anything more than petite you don’t really want to be touching their right thigh whilst trying to put the brake on…

We wouldn’t call the Volvo V40 over-generous on space. Rear-seat room is cosy, and the boot space not that convenient with a high loading sill, though the twin floor boot compartment is useful.

Volvo has long been known for its safety, with seemingly a new innovation with every launch. The V40 majors on new airbags – a knee one for the driver, and a pedestrian one. A what?

Volvo V40 pedestrian airbag

Yup, the Swedes have gone one step further than the impact absorbing pop-up bonnet. An unlucky soul hit by the car will be thrown onto said bonnet which will pop up – and then shoot an airbag out of its back, across both the gap and the lower part of the windscreen…

With this feature heading a long, long list of now-familiar features such as the auto brake-applying City Safety (which along with the pedestrian airbag is standard on all V40s), there’s no need to speculate on the likelihood of a top five-star Euro-NCAP rating for this car…

The current engine choice is two petrol and three diesel, with a third petrol unit on the way in a few months’ time. Trying out the lowest-powered variants of each, it’s easy to see why the 115hp diesel is expected to take almost two-thirds of V40 sales.

The 150hp entry-level petrol is confident, refined and a thoroughly satisfactory companion, and almost three seconds faster to 62mph than its oil-burning rival. Yet the diesel feels more eager, due no doubt to the impressive low-down torque, while remaining equally refined. And it offers a tax-busting 94g/km emissions figure.

Less impressive is the manual gearbox – a six-speed is standard across the range, but it could do with being more direct. Our test drive was accompanied with the odd woolly downshift, confidence slightly dented as we questioned whether it really had selected fourth instead of sixth.

On the road the Volvo V40 is very well behaved, soaking up the bumps and offering the ride comfort one expects of a fleet-angled motorway muncher. But presented with more challenging tarmac it delivers, with sharp, responsive handling that on our test was easily as good as the BMW and rather ahead of the Audi.

In summary, Volvo has a winner here. The V40 is a car that really should be considered by ‘premium’ buyers (a word that Connor admits he hates), and not just with prices that start with the smaller diesel in ES spec at £19,745. Yes, the potential money saved is a factor, but the specification and performance of this car also deliver.

On the evidence of our first drive, Volvo is right to consider its predicted sales figure as conservative – this is one Volvo that the Germans should be concerned about…

Volvo V40 – key specifications

Model Tested: Volvo V40
On Sale: July 2012
Price (range): £19,745-£26,795
Engines: Petrol 1.6 (2). Diesel 1.6, 2.0 (2)
Power (bhp): 148/177. 114, 148/174
Torque (lb/ft): 177/177. 199, 258/295
0-62mph (sec): 8.8/7.7. 12.3, 9.6/8.6 (auto 9.3/8.3)
Top speed (mph): 130/140. 118, 130/137 (auto 127/134)
Fuel economy (combined, mpg): 52.3/51/4. 78.5*, 65.7/65.7 (auto 54.3/54.3)
CO2 emissions (g/km): 125/129. 94*, 114/114 (auto 136/136)
Key rivals: BMW 1 Series, Audi A3, Mercedes-Benz A-Class
Test date: July 2012
*= with 205 series tyres. 250bhp T5 petrol engine available later

Volvo V40 on the road in the UK

Which optional extras are worth paying for?

Finding the right car at the right price is a complex issue, one dependent on personal tastes and the comfort, utility and economical requirements of every driver. Optional extras are one factor that experts and consumers alike have to weigh up when looking for that bargain. And whilst it’s tempting to chuck out everything you can possibly live without in pursuit of the most economical deal, optional extras aren’t actually that simple.  

We all want to have the best car we can reasonably afford, and some features enhance our ride to the point where they are more or less indispensible.  Furthermore, there are actually long-term benefits in paying for certain optional extras up front.

Optional extras – always worth a look

Metallic paint

What would you say your views are on metallic paint? Love it? Think it’s ok? Mostly indifferent? Whilst many of you will fall into the latter category, I reckon you’d be hard pressed to find anyone who actually dislikes the stuff. Does that alone make it a worthwhile optional extra? Oddly, yes.

The truth is that, since no one hates it and a few people like it, there are many who will pay extra for metallic paint at any stage of a vehicle’s life. Despite offering no practical benefit whatsoever, metallic paint can actually improve the resale value of your car. Along similar lines, leather seats and a popular, neutral colour (e.g. – silver) are other well-known depreciation busters.

Air conditioning

Increasingly only optional on barebones models, air conditioning is a feature that most cannot live without. The comfort benefit should not be underestimated and it has practical benefits in cold weather.

Parking sensors

Though you may want to skip the sensors if you’re in the market for a city car, parking sensors are an invaluable addition to larger cars and practically essential as you move further and further up the car size chart.

Sure, you should be a good enough driver to have a feel for exactly how much space your vehicle occupies. But even the best drivers have lapses in judgement: taking the sensor option may save you money in the long run, and it’ll make you more confident about finding a parking space

Optional extras – useful but overpriced

Built-in satnav

Dedicated sat nav units are going through a rough patch thanks to the navigation apps in everyone’s smartphones. Honestly, we’re not convinced that smartphones provide a better alternative: they’re far too small and can be unreliable in terms of data usage and battery life. But if you get a satnav for your car, you’re probably best off buying a stand-alone one rather than one actually built into your dashboard.

Whilst having an onboard computer is where manufacturers are naturally headed (fulfilling all of your Knight Rider fantasies) many car makers are charging too much for something with terrible software. Worse still, there are plenty of horror stories out there about extortionate maintenance charges when they go wrong. There are exceptions out there, but things need to change before the potential of sat nav as a built-in option is realised.

Bluetooth

Bluetooth is the standard for wireless communications and facilitates hand-free operation of just about every mobile phone on the market. The trouble is, manufacturers are still charging anywhere between £150 and £600 for a built-in system. Aftermarket kits cost a pitiful fraction of the cheapest extra and it’s not like they clutter up your dashboard like a satnav kit does.  If you can get a good deal on this option, consider it a modern essential. Otherwise, it’s probably best avoided.

Integrated televisions

Whether you’re looking at a central-dashboard entertainment system or screens for the back of your seats, you’re possibly saving yourself from the “Are we there yet?” headaches of bored children.  But you’ll pay through the nose for the feature, and there are alternatives.

Portable games consoles and music players will keep them entertained, and if you absolutely must have movies, you can probably invest in an iPad for your passengers for a similar price. An onboard system does have benefits – you’re not relying on battery power – so it’s still worth considering the option if you have the budget.

Sports suspension

Always an odd one – you’ll pay quite a bit extra for sports suspension but the benefit to handling is compromised by comfort. Definitely a ‘try before you buy’ proposition: some drivers love being able to tackle corners like a racing driver, but most will find themselves feeling like they’re driving a car which is a lot less refined and satisfying. Sometimes, spending less is more.

Cruise control

Purchasing cruise control should be approached with caution chiefly because operating it should be. Flipping to cruise control is good for taking the strain out of those longer motorway journeys.

However, you shouldn’t assume that cruise control is good for maintaining constant speed and cutting out all your other driving hassles. Cruise control is inconsistent when heading downhill and you override it when you’re pressing down on the accelerator – so don’t expect it to keep you safe from speed traps.

Optional extras – completely unnecessary

CD changers

Someone, somewhere, is probably still arguing that CDs sound discernibly better than digital audio (and that LPs sound ‘warmer’).  We argue that anyone who can tell the difference is probably suffering from tinnitus and self-delusion.

The choice is simple: you could lug around a collection of CDs and switch between a handful of them, or carry your whole collection around in a device which sits in your palm (or would do, if you weren’t driving). Oh, and some manufacturers (e.g. Audi) consider the use of writeable CDs as a breach of warranty if they get stuck. Strange but true.

Night vision

Pursuing some kind of SAS automotive fantasy, night vision is the ultimate misguided gimmick, a more money than sense option for luxury vehicles. Headlights show you everything you need to see and they don’t require that you take your eyes off the road and look at a pokey little monitor either.

You should also read: The Car Expert’s Ten Golden Rules for buying a car

Are women drivers better than men?

It’s a typical slow-news-day kind of story – are men or women drivers better? There have been numerous ‘reports’ that suggest one way or the other, based on various (usually questionable) criteria. In fact, since contemplating this blog in the last week, I’ve already read three different articles which question the relative merits of males and females behind the wheel. But can we really say that women are better drivers than men or vice versa?

In short, no we can’t. There is no physical reason why men and women should drive differently. Years ago, before power steering and automatic transmissions, you could have made an argument than men coped better with the physicality of driving, but that has not been the case for a long time now.

Usually debates about the merits of men and women behind the wheel revolve around invalid assumptions or highly selective statistics. And while there might be no physical reason why men and women drivers should be any different, The Car Expert has seen plenty of male and female drivers over the years to suggest that there are differences, and suggests some reasons.

Firstly, while it is technically correct that “men have more car accidents than women” and “men get more speeding fines than women”, it is less of an issue when you take into consideration that there are far more men on the road than women, and they also tend to drive longer distances.  So in percentage terms, the number of men getting caught for speeding and having accidents is not so different to women.

There are other factors at play as well – although before you start with the hate mail, bear in mind that these are generalisations, and based on many years of observations and anecdotal evidence rather than objective scientific data:

  • when couples (one man, one woman) travel together, it is more likely that the man will drive. On longer journeys, the man usually does more of the driving than the woman.
  • The above is even more true when conditions are more difficult (night, rain, snow, etc.) or they are in unfamiliar territory.
  • Single-occupant cars are far more likely to be men. Women drivers are more highly represented in cars with passengers, largely because they still share a larger load of chauffeuring the kids around than men do. This also has a massive bearing on driving styles, as will be discussed below.
  • Men and women tend to choose different types of cars, and men are also more likely to go for a higher-performance model of a certain car while women are less concerned about it. That at least partly explains the speeding tickets!
  • In social terms, cars tend to be a ‘guy thing’, which often means male drivers feel an expectation among their male peers to be competent drivers, with the result that bravado can often exceed actual ability. Women are less concerned about each others’ driving abilities as a measure of their standing as a human being, resulting in less bravado or showing off among friends.
  • Driving under the influence of alcohol or other drugs seems to be a male-dominated activity. For whatever social or psychological reasons, men are more likely to choose to drive when they know they have drunk too much than women.
  • The only significant physical difference I have observed between men and women behind the wheel is that more women drivers have problems with spatial awareness than men (most evident in parking or negotiating narrow gaps)

Confidence is King (or Queen)

After years of watching other people test driving cars at dealerships, the single most important difference between men and women drivers seems to be confidence. Men, on the whole, seem to be more confident behind the wheel than women.

This doesn’t mean that men are likely to have more or fewer accidents than women, but it does tend to mean they have different accidents. Having confidence makes you decisive, which means lots of good decisions and some bad ones, and more behaviour which may be considered ‘risky’.

Lacking confidence means you tend to be indecisive, which means fewer good decisions, more bad decisions and often a lack of decision which moves a situation out of your control. However, it also makes your behaviour more ‘risk-averse’.

This difference in confidence leads to a difference in how drivers approach every aspect of their driving. For example, a more confident driver is more likely to travel at a faster speed, sit closer to the car in front (including tailgating), and continue driving under more pressure or in more difficult conditions (such as heavy rain or tiredness) rather than stopping.

A less confident driver is more likely to hesitate at intersections and roundabouts, send unclear signals to other drivers about changing lanes and follow satnav directions rather than local signs or using their own judgment. Each of these situations can lead to an accident in the right circumstances.

As a car sales executive for many years, I got to sit alongside hundreds of complete strangers driving unfamiliar cars on unfamiliar roads, and it was confidence that dominated how the test drive went. Males, usually being more confident, would jump into the driver’s seat and go with much less hesitation than women.

Often there was an element of bravado and even self-imposed pressure not to look like a bad driver in front of someone who saw lots of drivers (not that I actually cared, unless I was worried for my own safety!), especially among younger male drivers.

With less confident drivers, usually but not always women, there would be much more hesitation, instant and abrupt following of instructions (eg – “change lanes somewhere along this road” would lead to an immediate lane change rather than a considered ‘mirror, signal, manoeuvre’ at an appropriate time), and often apologies for their “bad driving”.

My job was part-driving coach and part-salesman in managing people’s driving behaviour by encouraging them to relax or warning them to slow down as required!

Baby On Board

Having kids on board usually causes a dramatic change in driving behaviour as well. Even the most ‘risk-taking’ drivers become a lot more ‘risk-averse’ as soon as the child seats go in.

Although having said that, kids can be very distracting passengers, which leads to a whole different range of risks. The effect of other passengers varies depending on the demographics of the driver and passengers; young male drivers with their young male mates on board tend to take more risks than when they are on their own, whereas if a young male is driving his mother or grandmother, he tends to be far more careful.

Women drivers appear more likely to be distracted by conversations with their passengers than men. Unfortunately, there is very little scientific research available to develop these observations.

So, are women drivers any better or worse than men?

All of the above is based on my own observations, and generalisations based on my own years of experience. I could go on for hours with more anecdotal opinions about the differences between men and women drivers behind the wheel, but although there are clear differences between the average male and average female driver, I think that it pretty much balances out overall.

Most drivers of both sexes could do with some more driver training and education – although men are less likely to admit that ;)

But what do you think?  Please leave your thoughts below.  Do you think women drivers are ‘safer drivers’ than men?  Or are men ‘better drivers’ than women?

 

Are men drivers better or safer than women drivers? Ask The Car Expert!

The electric car is finally here, but is it worth it?

It seems like we’ve been waiting forever for electric cars to come along, but after countless false starts over the years, it looks like the electric car is finally here to stay.

Now, we need to start with some boring terminology: A true electric car (EV, for Electric Vehicle) has no petrol engine as backup, so you are reliant on the batteries having enough charge to get you to where you need to go. The Nissan Leaf is the best-known electric car currently on sale.

A regular hybrid uses an electric motor and/or a petrol motor, depending on the circumstances. You don’t plug it into a wall socket as the batteries charge while you are driving. A typical journey, even a short one, will use both electric and petrol power to drive the wheels. The Toyota Prius is the most popular and best-known hybrid on sale around the world.

A plug-in hybrid, “range-extending” electric car, is technically more of a fancy hybrid than a true EV although it drives more like an EV than a regular hybrid. In practice it might be a huge difference or none at all, depending on how you use the car. A range-extender, or plug-in hybrid as it’s more commonly known, has a petrol engine which can be used to power the electric motor once the batteries have drained, but the petrol engine does not directly drive the wheels*. The Vauxhall Ampera/Chevrolet Volt twins are the leading example of this type of car, and they claim an urban fuel consumption of 300mpg (yep, that’s three hundred. Not a typo!)

A car running on an electric motor is usually very quiet (eerie silence or a distant hum instead of a clearly audible petrol engine) and smooth (no vibrations from engine or gearbox). The response from the car away from rest is both immediate and powerful, as electric motors generate huge amounts of torque instantly. They’re quiet from the outside to, to such an extent that the EU is considering making audible warnings compulsory in the future as pedestrians simply won’t hear an electric car coming.

In terms of exciting handling, electric cars are usually not brilliant, it must be said. They tend to be very heavy and usually run tyres & wheels more beneficial for economy than handling. But as a commuter vehicle around town, they are zippy and efficient. Plus they generate less noise, heat and pollution into the street so a traffic jam of Nissan Leafs in the city would be a lot more pleasant for passing pedestrians.

The batteries on a typical electric car only give it enough range for a few miles (although a true EV will have a bigger battery pack as it doesn’t have to fit a petrol engine & fuel tank as well), so the cars use various means to charge the battery while driving. Usually this involves converting kinetic energy from coasting and braking to electric energy to store in the batteries. The Fisker Karma even has solar cells in its roof to charge the batteries as well.

However, a longer journey will inevitably mean that the batteries are drained.  In a fully electric car that means you have to stop and charge the batteries, so hopefully you parked near a power socket somewhere and have several hours to find something else to do.  In a hybrid, the petrol engine will start up to provide the power. In a regular hybrid like a Prius, the car effectively becomes an ordinary petrol car, albeit with a fairly underpowered engine pushing a heavy car around so it’s not swift. In a ‘range extender’ like the Ampera/Volt, the petrol engine provides energy to the electric motor to drive the wheels, which is more efficient in both performance and economy. Depending on how you’re driving, any spare energy from the petrol engine can be used to charge up the batteries again, so the car may switch back to electric power once charging is complete.

So what does this mean in the real world?

Well, how much of the following driving do you do?  We’re assuming here that the batteries are fully charged when you set off.

Short trips (<50 miles between charges).

These sort of journeys are ideal for electric cars and plug-in hybrids, as the batteries will cope with the whole journey and also get some charge while you drive. A regular hybrid will still need to use the petrol engine, although how much depends on how you drive it and how much charging it is able to get along the way.

Medium trips (50-100 miles between charges).

These are the sorts of trips that give EV drivers plenty of stress, as the traffic conditions may mean you run out of juice before you make it to your charging point. A plug-in hybrid or regular hybrid will be fine because they can call on the petrol engine. In a regular hybrid, this means the car will be petrol powered for most of the journey. In a plug-in hybrid, it will be mainly electric with the petrol engine kicking in to top up the batteries if needed late in the journey.

Longer trips (100+ miles between charges)

Not feasible in a fully-electric car, as you will almost certainly run out of electricity before you get there. The regular hybrid is basically a petrol car for almost the whole journey and the plug-in hybrid is majority electric but supplemented by petrol in a far more efficient way than a regular hybrid.

The pros and cons:

Let’s summarise the three types of electrically-powered cars:

Regular hybrid (eg – Toyota Prius)

PROS:  cheaper, no charging required, no range anxiety, regular petrol engine makes it feel like a regular petrol car

CONS:  only very short journeys (a few miles at best) will be fully electric, small battery pack and weak petrol engine means relatively poor performance compared to a normal petrol car or a fully electric car, poor economy when driven hard (like most Prius minicabs in London…), not very spacious for passengers and luggage due to carrying petrol and electric powertrains in one car

Fully electric car (EV) (eg – Nissan Leaf)

PROS:  powerful electric motor gives much better performance than a regular hybrid, larger battery pack means longer electric running , no petrol engine reduces weight and frees up a lot of space, £5000 government rebate, electricity is cheaper and usually less polluting than petrol, privileged parking spaces in certain public places

CONS: Still expensive despite rebate, minimal range capability due to lack of petrol engine backup, resulting range anxiety is a real issue for drivers, question marks over battery life, technology advances will make next generation massively better and hurt resale value, some driving adaptation required, lengthy recharging required after even a moderate drive,

Plug-in hybrid / range-extender (eg – Vauxhall Ampera)

PROS: powerful electric motor and backup petrol engine give best combination of performance and range, most journeys will be fully electric which is cheaper than petrol, no range anxiety, privileged parking spaces in certain public places

CONS: Very expensive despite rebate, question marks over battery life and resale value, wall socket charging is still slow, lack of space and very heavy due to having petrol engine and fuel tank as well as electric motor and batteries.

Electric car economics – is it all worth it?

For most people, an electric vehicle is difficult to justify on pure hard-headed economics.   Even with a £5,000 rebate from the government, an electric car is expensive.  A Nissan Leaf starts at £31,000, so after the government gives you £5K you have spent £26K on a car which would be probably worth about £15K if it had a normal petrol engine.  That could conceivably buy you a decade’s worth of fuel!  And there are still question marks hovering over the long-term reliability of batteries and resale value, which may bite you hard somewhere down the line.

Electric cars and the environment

Buying a hybrid or electric car because you think you’re helping the environment may not be helping that cause as much as you think, if at all. Producing car batteries is a dirty and complicated process, and the net result is that there is a significantly higher environmental impact in building an electric or hybrid car than building a regular petrol or diesel car. So you’re starting behind the environmental eight-ball before you’ve even driven you new green car.

Beware of “zero emissions” claims about electric vehicles, because most electricity still comes from fossil fuel sources (like gas or coal) rather than renewable sources, so you are still polluting the atmosphere when you drive, albeit not as much and the effects are not as noticeable to you. If you have your own solar panels or wind farm to power your car, this is much more environmentally friendly.

Range anxiety

The biggest electric car turn-off for car buyers (other than the high purchase price) is the joint problem of very limited range and very slow recharging. In a petrol or diesel car, you can drive for a few hundred miles, pull into a petrol station and five minutes later you are ready to drive for another few hundred miles. In an electric car, you drive for 50-100 miles, then have to stop and charge it for several hours to drive another 50-100 miles.

If you only take short journeys and can keep the car plugged in whenever it stops (usually at home or work), this may never be a problem. But you can’t expect to jump in the car and drive a couple of hundred miles, or get away with forgetting to plug the car in overnight after a journey. You have to be much more disciplined in terms of planning your driving, and allow for recharging. Away from home this is still a big problem as there are relatively few power sockets available in public parking areas for you to use.

A plug-in hybrid like the Vauxhall Ampera/Chevrolet Volt gets around the range anxiety problem, as does a normal hybrid like a Toyota Prius, but you are carting a petrol engine (and fuel) around all the time which you may not need, adding hundreds of kilos of weight and taking up lots of space, so it’s a compromise.

So as you can see from all of the above, it’s not at all straightforward. You need to carefully consider what sort of driving you will be doing and what you need your car to be able to do.

Further reading on environmentally-friendly driving

Fuel economy – petrol vs. diesel: The Car Expert explains the differences.

Fuel economy – real-world vs. official figures: The Car Expert explains why most drivers can’t match the official fuel economy figures on their cars.

Fuel economy – Are diesel cars suitable for city driving?: The Car Expert explains how urban driving affects diesel drivers.

Should you buy an electric car? Ask The Car Expert!

*there is a complicated technical argument about whether the Ampera/Volt’s petrol engine directly drives the wheels under certain circumstances, but it’s really boring and doesn’t really make any difference to anybody.

Downsizing your car – things to consider

“I’m downsizing my car” is a phrase that car dealers hear a lot from buyers.  People often get to a stage where they are considering a smaller car than they currently have, for a variety of reasons. 

Often it’s empty-nesters who no longer need to take the kids to school, footy practice, swimming lessons, camping holidays and so on. Other times it’s for reasons of economy – “My current car costs me too much to run” is a phrase commonly used in conjunction with downsizing.  But there are a few important things to consider when downsizing your car.

Now I’m a big fan of small cars. I like the way they are lighter, more agile and more nimble to drive than big cars. They are easier to park, usually cost less to run, tend to have less expensive tyres, brakes, and so on.

If I had a choice of two similar cars, I’d almost always take the smaller one – down to a point. There is always a point when a car is too small for your needs, and it’s important to know where that point is before you plunge into downsizing your current car for something smaller.

How small is too small?

If you are looking at downsizing your car, chances are it is because you have been upsizing your car in the past. And that makes sense – you needed a bigger car to fit little Jessica’s cello and little Johnny’s cricket bag, and now they’ve moved out of home.

But you probably also found that extra space handy when you needed to go to Ikea, or pick up supplies from the gardening centre, or travelled away with friends for the weekend. A smaller car won’t be as suitable for those sort of things, and some people find it much harder adjusting back down to a smaller car than they did getting used to a larger car.

My own parents went through this exact issue a few years ago in Australia, when they replaced their large V8 family car for a smaller, more economical four-cylinder hatch. Their regular interstate road trips with friends didn’t work very well, as it was a real squeeze fitting five adults and their luggage into their new car.

Sure, they could have hired a larger car for the weekend, but it was a hassle they hadn’t really thought about at the time of purchase. So consider carefully what you need to fit in your new car and how much you are prepared to compromise by downsizing to something smaller.

Is downsizing your car a false economy?

Smaller cars usually cost less to run than larger cars, in terms of fuel, registration and consumables. New cars are usually cheaper to service than older cars, both in terms of the cost of each service and the regularity with which servicing is required.

But that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a guaranteed money saver to buy a smaller car, especially if the alternative is to keep your current car. People often change their cars because they get frustrated with a spate of large bills on their current car, and this often coincides with a desire to reduce their motoring costs by buying a small car.

However, what they tend to overlook in their frustration is that they are often paying thousands upfront to change their car, in order to save hundreds on annual running costs.  If you are considering downsizing your car for economic reasons, make sure you calculate your numbers carefully.

Of course, if you are replacing your car anyway, and choosing between a larger car and a smaller car, it is usually much more economical to go for the smaller car.

Are you sitting comfortably?

It seems that far more drivers find it difficult to adjust when going from a large car to a small car than vice versa, which is the opposite of what people tend to think.  Instinct suggests that if you can handle a big car around the shopping centre car park, then a small car will make your life much easier. But downsizing drivers often find smaller cars to be less comfortable to drive than their larger car.

In the same way that a large ship will cope with waves much better than a little dinghy, a larger car will generally absorb bumps and broken road surfaces better than a small car will. A smaller car will be more agile in handling and manoeuvrability, but that will also make it feel more nervous and less stable on a motorway, and more susceptible to crosswinds.

Smaller cars also tend to downsize other aspects of the car that you might not have considered, like the width of the seat or the range of adjustment of the steering wheel. It’s really important to have a decent test drive and take your time finding a comfortable seating position before you commit to buying a smaller car.

Are you downsizing performance as well as size?

When drivers are downsizing their car for economy reasons, it usually follows that they start looking closely at fuel economy figures, and choosing engines which give the best reported economy without considering any performance implications.

The most economical engines on official reports tend to be the lowest performance engines as well, and glossy car brochures tend not to mention that they often make for incredibly slow cars which struggle to keep up with the cut and thrust of normal traffic, let alone motorway driving with four people on board.

And if you are having to work your engine harder just to keep up with traffic, you will be using far more fuel than the official figures suggest.  In fact, you may be using more fuel than a larger car (or larger-engined car) which is coping with the same traffic much more easily.

A few years ago, the Top Gear TV show highlighted an extreme example of this by putting a super-efficient Toyota Prius hybrid car up against a very powerful – and officially very uneconomical – BMW M3 V8 sports saloon. The hybrid was driven flat-out for a given distance, with the V8 sports car following along behind at the same speed.  Because the sports car was coping with the pace much more easily than the hybrid, it actually used less fuel.

It was a somewhat silly comparison, but did highlight the fact that hard driving kills fuel economy – so a ‘65mpg’ Prius hybrid actually recorded 17mpg when driven flat-out while the ‘23mpg’ BMW M3 sports car recorded 19mpg travelling at the same pace.

As with any car purchase, it is really important to carefully consider the implications of downsizing from a larger car to a smaller one.  Because you might be getting less than you bargained for.

Downsizing your car - advice from The Car Expert

Fuel Economy – petrol or diesel?

Fuel economy is a major consideration when buying a car. One of the most common questions car buyers in the UK ask, and certainly one I have been asked many times, is “Should I buy a car with a petrol or diesel engine?”  Well, there’s no simple answer; it depends on a number of factors. In this article, we’ll explore this in more detail.

Many car buyers have got themselves tangled up in false economic arguments when trying to choose between a petrol or a diesel engine when buying a new or used car. The correct choice is very much dependent on your specific circumstances and driving style. It is very important to carefully and thoroughly analyse your car usage to get a clear understanding of what your needs are.

For this article, we are not considering hybrid or purely electric cars, because it complicates things massively and will be the subject of a separate article later on, but let’s consider a straightforward example of diesel vs. petrol.

Volkswagen Golf fuel economy - petrol or diesel

The Volkswagen Golf has long been considered the benchmark for mid-size hatchbacks, and is available in a range of petrol and diesel engines with identical specifications. This makes it a good example to compare the engines. For this example, we will compare the 1.4 TSI 122hp petrol engine with the 2.0 TDI 140hp diesel engine. In the real world, these engines give comparable overall performance. We will compare manual gearboxes and assume the customer has paid full retail price. Servicing and maintenance costs are broadly comparable between the two models, so the difference will really come down to the engines.

We will use the official urban and combined fuel economy figures as provided by the government (extra-urban figures are usually useless), and assume the buyer keeps the car for three years, covering 10,000 miles per year.  Resale value is provided by What Car? magazine.  Fuel prices are provided by petrolprices.com as of today (5 March 2012).  We have to assume that fuel and registration costs stay at 2012 prices for the next 3 years (if only!) and that insurance costs are broadly similar for each car (which they should be).

Petrol:

  • Golf Match 1.4 TSI 122hp – £19,100
  • Value after 3 years – £7,640 (40% of new car price)
  • Fuel economy, urban – 34.4 mpg
  • Fuel economy, combined – 45.6 mpg
  • Road tax (first year included in new car price) – £130/year

Diesel:

  • Golf Match 2.0 TDI 140hp – £21,090
  • Value after 3 years – £9,491 (45% of new car price)
  • Fuel economy, urban – 46.3 mpg
  • Fuel economy, combined – 58.9 mpg
  • Road tax (first year included in new car price) – £95/year

So the diesel car is more expensive by nearly £2,000 when new, but should be worth about £1,800 more after three years.  It costs less to register (£35/year at present, so not a lot in it) and should use less fuel on average.

Total cost of buying and running each car for three years (excluding insurance, servicing and maintenance) are as follows:

Petrol:

  • Using Urban fuel economy figures – £17,335
  • Using Combined fuel economy figures – £15,964

Diesel:

  • Using Urban fuel economy figures – £16,293
  • Using Combined fuel economy figures – £15,300

So the diesel Golf is £347/year cheaper to run using the urban figures, and £221/year cheaper to run using the combined figures. In the overall of a £20,000 car, this is hardly a significant difference, and doesn’t take into account individual driving circumstances. The government fuel economy tests are not really representative of real-world driving, and very few drivers ever match the official figures. Below I will detail the differences in the way a petrol engine drives compared to a diesel engine.

What can be said for certain is that the higher your annual mileage, the better the diesel becomes. The above calculation is based on 10,000 miles per year, which is considered average. If your mileage is higher than that, the diesel car’s advantage is greater. If your mileage is lower, the figures become even closer.

The above example is also very specific to that car and those two engines. If you are looking at a different car, then you need to use the relevant figures for the engines available for that model.

What is most important of all is properly considering how you will really use the car for as long as you own it, but here is a very general breakdown of the generic differences between petrol and diesel engines:

  • A petrol engine usually produces more power than a comparable diesel, making it more responsive at very low revs, so pulling away from rest at the lights or at a T-junction is usually quicker in a petrol engine.  A diesel engine will have to work harder and therefore use more fuel to keep up.
  • A diesel engine usually has more torque than a petrol engine, making it better at carrying heavy loads.  So a diesel engine maintains its performance and economy much better when you load up a car with a full load of passengers and a bootful of luggage, whereas a petrol engine will struggle noticeably in comparison, losing performance and using more fuel.
  • A diesel engines tends to be more economical in steady-state driving, such as on a motorway, when the engine is at its optimal point and cruising along comfortably.  A petrol engine will have to work harder to maintain its momentum and will use more fuel.
  • Stop-start town driving is inefficient for any kind of engine, so there is much less difference in fuel economy between a petrol and diesel engine around town.  Especially if you have to work the diesel engine harder under acceleration.
  • A petrol engine produces fewer overall emissions per litre of fuel burned than a diesel engine.  But a diesel engine will usually use fewer litres, so be may more eco-friendly for a given distance (internationally measured in grams per kilometre – g/km).  But that’s assuming optimal conditions, because…
  • Short journeys are very inefficient for any kind of engine, as cold engines use more fuel and pollute a lot more than warm engines.  This applies to both petrol and diesel engines, and means neither engine approaches anywhere near its ‘official’ fuel economy figures.  A journey has to last at least 10-15 minutes before the fuel economy starts to hit its best figure, and prior to that both engines are using lots of fuel.
  • Diesel-engined cars tend to cost more than petrol-engine cars when new.  However, their resale value is usually better (this is very dependent on fuel prices at the time, so is only ever a prediction of what will happen in the future).
  • The sound of a diesel engine is still off-putting to some people, although they are much more refined than they used to be.

More than just fuel economy

We need to take all of the above into account when deciding whether to go for a petrol or diesel car.  Funnily enough, the recommendations provided by The Car Expert are split about 50/50 for petrol and diesel, with factors other than fuel economy often being more important.  Also, if you’re going to buy a used car, there may be very little difference in price between a petrol car and a diesel car.  But the overall message is to carefully evaluate how you are going to use the car before laying down your hard-earned money.

The Car Expert compares real-world fuel economy to official fuel consumption figures

Want to know more about fuel economy?  Read The Car Expert’s latest article on why your real-world fuel consumption doesn’t match the official manufacturer figures.

Want to know more about the specific issues for using a diesel car for city driving?  Read The Car Expert’s article on diesel cars and urban driving.

Should you pay extra for premium fuels? The Car Expert looks at premium diesel and premium unleaded petrol, and whether they’re worth the money.

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