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Independent vs. franchise dealerships – the pros and cons

The Car Expert staff
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Uh-oh, something’s gone wrong.  The car is making a strange sound or is showing a dreaded warning light, and it needs a quick fix before the situation worsens. Or perhaps your vehicle is embarrassingly overdue for a service. Or maybe you’re just looking to buy a new motor.

Naturally, you’ll be tempted to visit the garage or dealership closest to you, but will they offer you the best service, expertise and value for money?

Whether your local garage is a small independent, or a commercial franchise dealership, they both have their pros and cons. Let’s take an objective look at how you can choose the best dealership based on your needs.

Independent garage

One of the main elements that divide an independent garage from a franchise dealership is the scale of their operations. Independents can often be the cheaper option as they have fewer overheads than larger businesses.

A reputable independent garage tends to offer a more personalised service with a strong focus on customer satisfaction, as it usually relies on word of mouth to grow its customer base. You will often get to speak directly to the mechanic working on your car, who will be able to share their expertise and let you know exactly what’s going on under the bonnet. Many of these establishments are run by former technicians from a franchise dealership, so they will be highly trained.

Don’t be afraid to ask the important questions – does the garage possess the necessary certification to carry out servicing on your vehicle?  Do they only use genuine car parts? Although it’s rare, lower costs can sometimes result from using non-genuine parts and cheaper labour, which can end up causing more damage than it’s worth.

Most local garages that are not franchise dealerships cannot perform warranty work at all, because they are not authorised to provide repairs by the manufacturer. They also do not have the same access to service information and manufacturer-specific technical support as franchise dealerships do, and may not have access to the latest diagnostic equipment or to your vehicle history records. Don’t necessarily let this put you off – just be sure to do your research first.

If you’re in the market for a used car, your local independent dealership may have a greater catalogue of these at their disposal than a franchise, at better prices too. Remember when buying a used motor to insist on a paper trail of the vehicle’s history before making any purchase.

One of the disadvantages of servicing a car with an independent garage is that it will negatively affect your car’s resale value. So you might save money now, but potentially lose it later on. The extent of this impact will depend on how long you keep the car; if it is several years old, it’s much less relevant than on a new or near-new car.

Franchise dealership

There are many benefits to opting to have your car serviced or repaired by a franchised main dealership. First and foremost, you get greater security and reassurance that your warranty will be preserved. Whilst some independents will be warranty-approved, a franchise dealership can guarantee this, which goes a long way to protecting your car’s residual value.

Car manufacturers are unable to insist which dealer you should visit to service your car, but they can easily void a claim for poor work practices, such as using non-genuine replacement parts. Franchises will make certain their components are certified by the manufacturers themselves, not to mention the access they have to the most up-to-date diagnostic and monitoring equipment, which independents are less likely to have in their workshop.

A disadvantage for bigger businesses is that they generally have higher costs. This is due to the larger number of overheads they need to account for at their facilities, such as staff numbers, but depending on which garage you use there may also be potential hidden fees. Ask for a cost breakdown for any task carried out so that the figures are in black and white.

When buying a pre-owned car, a franchise dealership will provide a warranty certified through the manufacturer, and the dealer will be able to provide written evidence of this. If you are looking at financing options for the vehicle, main dealerships will usually offer a lower interest rate than the independents due to their closer relationship with the manufacturer. However, this will not always be the case, so if you are looking at doing this, make sure to do your research for the best finance option.

Servicing your car with a franchise dealership will usually have a positive benefit on your car’s resale value when you come to sell the car. Prospective buyers prefer to see an official dealer stamp in the book rather than a local garage. If you have bought a new or near-new car, this is definitely worth considering.

So who comes out on top?

We can see that independent garages have the upper hand on lower costs and customer service, whilst franchise dealerships can give you greater peace of mind overall.

Before you make up your mind about which garage to visit, be sure to check any reviews of their company online as this can make the decision process much easier.

You should also read:

Volvo Drive-E D4 diesel engine review

Andrew Charman
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Volvo Drive-E D4 diesel engine review

What is it?
First of new four-cylinder Drive-E eco engine range

Key features
Large engine power, small engine economy and emissions

Our view
In short, startlingly good

This is a bit of a road test with a difference, as the test subject is not a new car, but the first of a range of engines. And these are very significant engines, as despite being only of four cylinders they will replace all of Volvo’s current powertrains within the next two years.

Drive-E used to be the badge that Volvo hung on cars fitted with its most efficient, cleanest engine. Now, however, Drive-E becomes the designation of a complete new technology programme, development that began way back when Volvo was still owned by Ford and which Derek Crabb, in charge of the project, describes as revolutionary. With this technology, he adds, the V8 engine becomes a dinosaur.

The programme will see Volvo abandon its current eight engine architectures in favour of two four cylinder units – one petrol, one diesel. From these, all future engines will be derived, no matter how potent they are.

The measures Volvo has come up with result in the number of cylinders in an engine being no longer relevant to its power or drivability. “By making the engine smaller we make it more efficient,” says Crabb. “They will make more power than today’s six-cylinder units, but be more than 50 kilos lighter, and they will offer lower fuel consumption than today’s four-cylinder generation.”

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The two new units are both turbocharged. In its most powerful form the petrol unit will also boast a supercharger. The diesels will span power outputs from 120 to 230hp, the petrols 140 to past 300hp.

To the basic architecture are added a number of innovations designed to improve the engine’s efficiency. In the petrols, for example, the measures include high-speed continuous valve timing, very finely tuned heat management, and low-friction measures such as adding ball bearings to the camshafts.

The diesels have seen major advances to the common rail system in what Crabb describes as “the second step of the diesel revolution,” after the invention of the lambda sensor for direct injection in the 1970s. Instead of there being one sensor on the common rail, there are now sensors in each injector, and each also boasts an intelligent chip to further refine the fuel control, along with similar low friction measures to the petrol engines.

Added to the engines are all-new gearboxes, in six-speed manual or eight-speed auto form and specifically developed to improve fuel economy.

The results are impressive, to say the least. So far only the D4 diesel has reached showrooms. It’s on offer in the S60 and V60, V70, S80 and XC60 and XC70 models – Volvo’s best-selling V40 will get the unit later in the year.

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Compared to the previous D4, it’s a completely different beast – significantly more powerful, with 181hp and 295lbft of torque. All of which means cars with this engine are faster – by two seconds to 62mph. Yet they are far more frugal, and cleaner. Volvo can now offer a D4-engined S60 with 99g/km emissions and thus zero Vehicle Excise Duty (VED). For business users, benefit-in-kind rates will be slashed.

It all sounds very impressive, but what are they actually like on the road? In short, startlingly good. On the launch event The Car Expert tried the new engine in the XC60, the S60 and the S80.

Roads varied from traffic-choked town centres to fast country routes with sweeping bends and long straights. And through all of them the D4 proved to be just about the smoothest diesel we’d ever driven with, certainly with such power.

The gearboxes were equally impressive – slick shifting manuals, silky and swift autos.

And finally, these engines are so compact, that they offer plenty of space to add such future tech, such as the plug-in hybrid drivetrains that are just a couple of years down the line, and will improve economy and emissions still further.

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Volvo has made great strides in recent years in turning its cars into more attractive propositions, in terms of styling, technology and safety. An increasing number of drivers who have previously bought upmarket German rivals, and those buyers of more mainstream brands are now looking towards Volvo – Drive-E will see far more doing the same…

SEAT Leon ST review

Andrew Charman
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SEAT Leon ST review

What is it?
All-new estate version of family hatch

Key features
Load capacity and practiclity in stylish package

Our view
The SEAT Leon ST is not the largest estate in its class, but more than adequate for most families.

The new, third-generation of SEAT’s Leon family car was always conceived as a family. The five-door hatch and three-door Sports Coupé are already on sale, now comes the third and final member, the ST, Sports Tourer or estate in everyday parlance.

With its first Leon estate, the brand is launching into a growing sector of the market, as more buyers with a need for serious load capacity but a desire for better economy downsize from larger estates such as Ford’s Mondeo and the Vauxhall Insignia.

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The mid-sized estate market is equally dominated by Ford, with the Focus, and Vauxhall’s Astra Sports Tourer, but the Leon ST will also face other cars coming into the market for the first time such as Honda’s Civic Tourer, also launching this month.

First impressions are good – the Leon has always sold on style, and adding a large boot does not compromise the much-praised looks of the latest range. Forward of the windscreen pillars all three cars are the same, and the ST shares the wheelbase of the hatch. The larger car’s rear overhang, however, is extended by 272mm while maintaining a sleek, muscular look that certainly disguises its extra capability.

The load space is 587 litres – 207 more than the hatch, and extendable to 1,470 with the rear seats folded. While impressive, this is not as much as some rivals including the Civic.

The car does boast lots of practical touches, however, including a double boot floor, a through loading hatch for long thin cargo, roof rails and a retractable rear shelf, which sensibly is provided with storage when not in use. There are also 13 extra storage spaces too.

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The interior is of course shared with the ST’s sister models, with a combination of more upmarket soft-touch surfaces and detailing and increased technology including the five-inch colour touchscreen infotainment centre.

Some technology, however, debuts with the Leon ST. Progressive steering is more reactive at lower speeds to ease parking and aids high-speed stability, while radar-activated Adaptive Cruise Control and Dynamic Chassis Control, with its ability to electronically monitor damper settings, are also available on certain models, along with a panoramic sunroof.

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The engine line-up is familiar from early tests of the hatch and SC and includes two with emissions in tax-free sub-100g/km territory. The best Ecomotive variant offers a mere 87g/km, along with combined cycle fuel economy of plus 85mpg.

On the launch event The Car Expert was able to test the 1.4 TSI petrol of 138bhp, and the likely to be fleet-friendly 1.6TDI of 104bhp, the latter with the DSG auto gearbox.

Surprisingly it was the petrol unit that impressed more. While boasting the same torque figure as the diesel, it felt more sprightly and the manual gearbox more slick than the DSG. However it cannot compete with the almost 20 extra miles per gallon offered by the diesel.

As in all Leons suspension setup varies dependent on model – the lower spec S and SE versions have a rear torsion beam, while on range-topping FR models a multi-link setup is specified. This makes a difference on the road, especially on the pothole-damaged tarmac of winter England. Certainly there is no feeling of driving a load carrier.

The Leon ST won’t be the largest estate in its class, but it will be more than adequate for most families, with its practicality scoring highly. Where it will score most of all, however, is on style – few estates will match it for looks.

SEAT Leon ST – key specifications

Model Tested: SEAT Leon 1.4 TSI 140 PS, 1.6TDI 105 PS DSG-auto
On the road: January 2014
Price: £16,675-£24,630
Engines: Petrol 1.2, 1.4, 1.8. Diesel 1.6 x 2, 2.0 x 2.
Power (bhp): 104, 138, 177. 104/109, 148/181.
Torque (lb/ft): 129, 184, 184. 184/184, 236/280.
0-62mph (sec): 10.3, 8.4, 7.8. 11.1/10.4, 8.6/7.8
Top speed (mph): 119, 131, 140. 119/122, 134/142
Fuel economy (combined, mpg): 57.6, 53.3, 47.9. 74.3/85.6, 68.9/65.7.
CO2 emissions (g/km): 114, 122, 137. 99/87, 106/112.
Key rivals: Ford Focus Estate, Vauxhall Astra ST, Renault Megane ST
Test date: January 2014.
* all figures with manual gearbox models

Driving a Ferrari 458 and being chauffered by The Stig

Stuart Masson
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Driving a Ferrari 458 and being chauffered by The Stig

This article is brought to you by KIK e-cigarettes.

This week, I had the opportunity to do something that many grown men would give an important part of their anatomy to do – be driven flat-out around a racetrack in a Lamborghini Aventador by the man who was, until recently, The Stig.

The venue was the Three Sisters Race track in Wigan, and the occasion was the launch of KIK e-cigarettes. As part of the day’s activities, the lucky invited guests were given the chance to drive a Ferrari 458 Spider around the race track under professional instruction. Then, after stepping out of the Ferrari’s driver’s seat, we stepped into the passenger seat of the Lamborghini for a few hot laps with Ben Collins, former Stig for BBC’s Top Gear TV programme.

Quite a number of the assembled guests had never experienced a car beyond a garden-variety hatchback, so the invitation to slide behind the wheel of one of the finest Ferrari models ever created was really the chance of a lifetime. Each driver got about five laps, and the pattern was usually one of gentle apprehension followed by gradually building confidence, followed by a bit of a scare (it was quite a cold and wet day) and backing off again to end. But the real highlight was still to come…

Once the driver had exited the Ferrari’s cockpit, and with barely enough time to finish grinning like a loon, they were ushered over to the menacing white Lamborghini and directed into the passenger seat alongside Ben Collins. Sadly, he wasn’t wearing a white suit, but you can’t have everything.

Ferrari 458 Spider at the KIK e-cigarette launch event

The passenger was then scared witless as Ben thrashed the big Lamborghini around the tight and twisty track for a few laps, and then emerged looking wide-eyed and a bit green, but laughing nervously and still trying to comprehend how fast they had been travelling.

Having previously driven some very high-tech machinery, I was very much looking forward to driving the Ferrari. And it certainly didn’t disappoint. The 458 is an amazing machine, and even though we were unable to have the roof down due to the inclement weather, the sound of the howling V8 engine behind my ears was ear-splitting. The steering felt almost telepathic, and the traction control system was working overtime as the rear tyres struggled to get 560hp to the ground.

The Ferrari was surprisingly easy to drive quickly, even on a damp circuit, although there was always the feeling that one slightly over-eager jab on the throttle would get you into a large degree of trouble. But having a Ferrari and a racetrack all to yourself is something to remember for a very long time, and it’s fair to say that I enjoyed myself a great deal!

Ben Collins and Helen Flanagan pose for the cameras on KIK e-cigarettes launch day

As we pulled back into the pits at the end of my run, I was feeling quite good about myself and my driving ability. Until I strapped into a Lamborghini alongside The (former) Stig. The instant that Ben slid the Aventador around the first corner at staggering speed, the gulf between a regular punter and a properly good racing driver was painfully obvious. At no point on the twisty little Three Sisters track was the Lamborghini travelling in a straight line, yet the speed that Ben carried was astonishing.  Motoring journalists have long used the cliché of a car “cornering like it’s on rails”, but they are obviously not going fast enough. If I was driving and the car was moving underneath me like a dodgy washing machine while I was trying to accelerate, brake and steer, I would instinctively slow down until the car started to behave properly. But The (former) Stig just seemed to go even faster, mastering the bucking bronco while making it charge around exactly where he wanted to.

That night, at the KIK cocktail party, the main topic of conversation was still the excitement of driving the Ferrari 458 and riding shotgun with The (former) Stig in the Lamborghini Aventador. And although quite a few people won’t remember the party, they are unlikely to forget the racetrack!

Citroën Grand C4 Picasso review

Andrew Charman
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Citroën Grand C4 Picasso review

What is it? All-new variant of seven-seat MPV
Key features: Distinctive styling, practicality, frugal engines
Our view: A mix of practicality and style is likely to find it plenty of contented owners

Citroën’s Picasso range has always stood out in the mostly innocuous arena of the MPV, mainly because of its looks. When it first launched in 1999, the Xsara Picasso was a people carrier with distinctive style, which endeared it to many a buyer.

As a result the Xsara Picasso, and its successors the C4 and Grand C4 Picassos, have always accounted for a major slice of Citroën’s sales – some 3.2 million shifted in their almost 15-year life. Today they take 25 per cent of Citroën’s UK volume and are only exceeded by the even more stylish DS cars with their 35 per cent.

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The new five-seat C4 Picasso arrived last year and has done well – 41,000 sold across Europe in 2013. Now it’s the turn of its seven-seat big sister, the Grand C4 Picasso.

It’s not usual for an MPV to offer strong first impressions but the moment one claps eyes on the Grand C4 Picasso its exterior of curves and creases certainly takes the eye. We are told the front end is bespoke to the model but it’s clearly related to the five door and forms part of one of the most successful exercises yet in getting away from the big square box looks of the average people carrier.

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Like its sister this Picasso is built on PSA Group’s latest EMP2 platform – underpinning a whole host of cars including the new 308 from Peugeot. The versatile foundation allows a versatile layout – the wheelbase has been stretched by 110mm in a car that is no longer than its predecessor, and has less sticking out ahead of the front wheels, and wider tracks, which all adds up to rather more room inside.

Traditionally seven seaters mean five proper seats and two for the younger members of the family. The Grand C4 is no different but the rear pair offer rather more comfort than most, which can be extended by sliding the middle seat row forwards.

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When one pulls the rear seats up from the floor – a really easy one-hand movement – there is still some luggage space behind. Not loads, but again more than most! Normal boot space, by the way is 632 litres, which is 56 more than the old Grand C4, and extendable to 793 with the middle row of seats slid forward, or 2,181 with both rows folded down.

One more big plus – with many MPVs using the rearmost seats means removing the parcel shelf and leaving it at home. Citroën provides a means to bolt it back into the car behind those seats – one of those “why doesn’t everyone do that” innovations…

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Sitting up front everything feels rather big. The dash seems a long way away, thanks partly to the huge swept-back screen. Choose the panoramic sunroof option, and it feels like you are driving a goldfish bowl…

The controls are well placed in a style-conscious layout with a central-console touch screen dominating. We didn’t find this that user-friendly, lacking the smooth swipe-ability of the average tablet – perhaps take some tips from an iPad?

There’s a five-way engine choice, two of them 1.6 petrol units of 118 and 153bhp, and likely to be very much bit players – Citroën expects nine out of 10 buyers to go for one of the three diesels, these being 1.6-litre units of 89 or 114bhp, and 2.0-litre of 148bhp.

The smallest of these engines offers official fuel economy figures of more than 74mpg, and free road-tax territory emissions of 98g/km. In an MPV this size, that’s remarkable and as Citroën cheerfully points out, only currently available elsewhere in hybrid vehicles.

Sadly this engine also comes fitted as standard with an auto-manual gearbox that aids the economy but not the driving experience, feeling slow and laboured. As a result this buyer, and according to Citroën most buyers, would go for the 114bhp 1.6-litre e-HDi unit, with a six-speed manual shift – much more fun…

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On the road – well you are never going to be looking for high performance from an MPV but the Grand C4 is better than rivals – and its predecessor, smothering the bumps and confidently attacking the twisty bits.

Grand C4 Picasso prices start at £19,200 – to pick the 1.6 diesel predicted best seller will cost from £21,995. Up to four trim levels are on offer, dependent on model.

One seldom buys a people carrier for anything other than its, well people-carrying ability – the Grand C4’s predicted 25/75 per cent retail/fleet sales split is evidence of that. But this MPV tries harder than most, and its mix of practicality and style is likely to find it plenty of contented owners.

Citroen Grand C4 Picasso – key specifications

Model Tested: Citroën C4 Grand Picasso 1.6-litre e-HDi 115
On Sale: January 2014
Price: £19,200-£27,855
Engines: Petrol 1.6×2. Diesel 1.6×2, 2.0
Power (bhp): 118/153. 89/114, 148
Torque (lb/ft): 118/177. 169/199, 273
0-62mph (sec): 12.6/9.2. 14.0/12.1, 9.8
Top speed (mph): 116/130. 109/117, 130
Fuel economy (combined, mpg): 44.8/46.3. 74.3/70.6, 65.7
CO2 emissions (g/km): 145/139. 98/105, 110
Key rivals: Ford S-Max, Peugeot 5008
Test date: January 2014

The rise of the premium SUV in the UK

The Car Expert staff
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The rise of the premium SUV in the UK

Over the past few years, the major cities and towns of the UK have become inundated with premium SUVs (sports utility vehicles).  The number of SUV and crossover vehicles continues to grow, and this trend looks set to continue. They are often attractive and offer more versatility than your average road car, but this also usually comes at a higher price than your standard vehicle. The purpose of this post is to look at some of the different premium SUVs currently available on the market and what they offer to consumers.

The exact definition of an SUV is somewhat ambiguous, covering various types of vehicle depending on who you talk to. Some people would classify ‘crossover’ cars, which are beefed-up versions of regular models, as SUVs; whereas others are purists who equate an SUV with a traditional 4×4 vehicle. For the purpose of this article, the term SUV will cover all vehicles broadly falling into that area of the market.

The vehicles listed in this post are not ranked in any particular order, but are presented to give an overview of what is typical in today’s rapidly changing market.

Land Rover Range Rover Sport – the archetypal premium SUV

The Land Rover Range Rover Sport is a mid-sized yet powerful vehicle that sets out to make a statement. Favoured by executives and often found at the top end of corporate fleets, it is by no means cheap with prices starting around the £50k mark. The value from this vehicle comes from a high level of luxury and quality.

The latest Range Rover Sport has done well to achieve a sportier look and feel with kerb weight reduced by up to 420kg in some variations. The drive is pretty dynamic, as you would expect from a model that has ‘Sport’ in its name. The diesel V6 model can do 0-60 in 6.8 seconds, which is fast enough for most, and there is a supercharged petrol V8 model as well if you want to spend £90K.

Summary: The Range Rover Sport is very expensive to purchase and run, but it oozes quality and is a true premium car, let alone a premium SUV.

Audi Q3 – small premium crossover

This is a car that falls into the crossover category, with a construction built on the A3 hatchback model but with the design and feel of a larger SUV. As with most Audi vehicles, the focus is on quality and technology. You can definitely feel both, whether it’s under the bonnet or in front of you on the dash. It’s mid-range in terms of pricing for the premium SUV market, with prices generally floating around the £30k mark.

The Audi Q3 is a good all-round runner that gets its job done without complications. The entry cost and fuel consumption are good (54.3mpg on entry level models) and as with many Audi products you can feel it’s solid and reliable from the first drive. Despite its somewhat awkward styling from certain angles, it has certainly been popular with UK buyers since launch.

Summary: This is a car that’s built for practical users who want something of reasonable size that’s not going to cost them the world. Customer feedback shows that the maintenance is little and the Q3 gets on with driving in most real-world conditions without a struggle.

BMW X5 – large urban premium SUV

Now in its third generation, the BMW X5 is one of the larger models coming under the SUV bracket, with the ability to seat five comfortably or seven at a pinch. It’s a true urban SUV, built to look great and drive nicely around inner city routes and on motorways.  The result is that it gives a comfortable ride rather than focusing on purely off-road capability. Having said that, it offers good fuel economy with an average of 50.4mpg on entry level models.

The price may be a little high for what you’re getting, with entry-level models starting at around £42,000. There are other cars on the market that offer better value for the same amount of money. But what you’re paying for is a BMW badge, extra seating, good storage space and a surprising amount of agility for its big stature.

Summary: A big SUV that handles itself well, has plenty of storage/seating and is great for urban cruising. Not the most elegant or stylish but certainly has its value points and can’t be discounted.

Hyundai Santa Fe – aspiring premium SUV

Originally more of a budget SUV, the Hyundai Santa Fe has upped its efforts with the latest model and is pushing its way into the premium end of the SUV market. It is available in either five- or seven-seat models, and is a comfortable and practical car to drive. The Santa Fe could be described as more of a traditional 4×4 if you were to try and classify it.

It is still a relatively low cost vehicle, entering the market at around £25,000. So if you’re looking for a reliable car in this rising market without going overboard, the Santa Fe is a great choice. With consumer choice dominated by German manufacturers, Hyundai is rising up fast with this model. You get a good range of built-in electronics on the dash and the large panoramic front window gives a fuller driving experience.

Summary: Not at the top end of the SUV market in terms of performance, but comes close for a much reduced price.  The car handles well, has a lot of built-in technology and has plenty of space for busy families.

Kia Sportage – the next big thing in premium SUVs?

One of the most requested SUVs on the market right now is the Kia Sportage.  Kia has continued on an upward trend to become a great value brand in the middle sector of the family car market. The appeal largely comes from getting a vehicle that provides the same experience as the big brands, but you’re not paying the premium for an established name.

The Sportage is great looking, a manageable size and comes with a starting price point of around £17,500. Where it does fall short is the quality of the interior furnishings, this car is not as focused on luxury as some of the competing higher priced models. With up to 54.3mpg it offers great value fuel economy and is cheaper than many SUVs to run on a daily basis.

Summary: Pure value for money is how the Sportage can be summed up. It will give you a similar driving experience to the traditional brands in the market and save you money on a humble yet comfortable interior.

EVO magazine – digital vs print editions

Stuart Masson
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Just like music and video, the world of publishing has been changing at a rapid rate since the growth of the internet.  More and more people now get their daily reading material from portable devices accessing websites and apps, and it seems likely that the newsagent may soon join the music store and bookshop on the high street’s endangered species list. By now we are all familiar with surfing websites to get the latest news on the car industry, whereas print magazines simply cannot match the pace at which news can be delivered. There are also plenty of sites (like The Car Expert!) which deliver blog and opinion content, with varying levels of quality and quantity.  As a result, traditional print magazines now tend to focus on feature articles and higher-quality journalism. But the writing does appear to be on the wall (or the web…). So how do the growing number of motoring magazine apps compare to the traditional paper versions which have provided us with news and opinion for decades?  Are we looking at real progress, or are publishers simply looking to save money on print and distribution costs by pushing us all towards a digital future?  Will the relentless drive to be first with news mean the end of considered, quality journalism if print magazines do not survive? The people at EVO magazine recently asked The Car Expert to review their new-and-improved app, so it seemed a good idea to compare the experience of reading the magazine on an iPad with the ‘real’ version from the newsagent. As EVO magazine is a title which concentrates on feature content aimed at car enthusiasts rather than aiming to be first with every scrap of ‘news’ across the industry, it seemed like an ideal opportunity to see whether a quality magazine can adapt to the digital era. Obviously, one of the big advantages of a digital product is the ability to have content which is simply not possible in a paper magazine, like videos or interactive pieces.  This is the most exciting frontier of digital publishing, where content goes beyond traditional word-and-pictures publishing to incorporate new ideas and new ways of engaging with readers. The other big advantage of digital content is the ability to access it from anywhere on the planet as soon as it is published, rather than relying on the postman or making a trip to the newsagent. For readers of overseas publications, this can not only mean accessing the content weeks earlier than a magazine will usually ship, but it is also much cheaper than paying for international postage. Some publishers allow you to buy individual issues in digital form. At this time, EVO only offers a digital subscription model, where new articles are available to read every few days. You can choose from one month, six months or 12 months, with the 12-month option offering the best value if you are a regular reader. EVO magazineIt’s not a straight digital version of the magazine, but rather a dedicated app which channels the core content of EVO magazine into a dedicated app format. You don’t get all of the articles from the magazine, but you do get the major stories.  The digital subscription is cheaper than the full magazine, so it becomes a question of whether you want just the main articles or absolutely every word that EVO writes each month. In terms of the freshness of the content, some of the articles (such as news and opinion columns) are often available on the app before they are published in the magazine, while other articles (feature stories) are only released on the app after the magazine is published.  The majority of the material is taken directly from the magazine, albeit re-formatted to suit a digital format, so the quality of the writing and photography remains superb. One significant drawback of the digital version is that the content only appears to be available while you maintain your subscription. Once it expires or you cancel it, you can no longer access most of the content – even though you have already downloaded it. This is likely to be a serious issue for many potential users, as it is a fundamentally different concept from buying and forever owning a magazine with all its content. Other industries have already faced this issue and dealt with it in different ways, so it may take some adjustment from both publishers and consumers to reach a happy balance. So after a month of using the new EVO magazine app, what are the pros and cons compared to reading EVO in paper form?

The pros:

  • You can read the latest articles anywhere in the world, without relying on the postman or having to visit the newsagent
  • A year’s worth of content fits right in the palm of your hand, rather than a boxful of paper magazines cluttering up every spare bit of space in your apartment or shed. Want to go back and read an article from six months ago? It’s much easier than searching through numerous magazines to find what you’re looking for
  • It’s better for the environment. Many millions of magazines around the world are pulped every year, either because they are unsold or are discarded once the reader has finished with them.
  • Although it’s still early days for digital magazines, there is already much more interactive and exclusive content that simply doesn’t work in a paper magazine, like video and audio content. This aspect of the business will grow exponentially in years to come.
  • No advertisements (at this stage; who knows what will come later.  Plenty of other apps include ads, so presumably EVO will start including them eventually)

The cons:

  • The subscription model used by EVO appears to only be valid while you are subscribing. If you fail to renew your subscription, the material is no longer available. This aspect of the digital model is likely to cause potential users the most grief, as you are not buying an article in the same way that you are when you buy a magazine.
  • You have to have a tablet or smartphone to access the service (and a tablet is much better, with the extra size making things much easier to read), rather than a desktop or laptop computer. Also, the device has to be operable (so you can’t use it on a plane when taking off and landing, etc.) and charged, as a flat battery means no more reading!
  • You can’t browse through a digital magazine to decide whether or not you want to buy it. Some magazines offer a free preview feature, but inevitably it is not that good, and certainly not the same as flicking through a magazine in a newsagent to see if it’s worth spending your money on.
  • Not every article in EVO magazine is available on the EVO app, so it can feel a bit like ‘EVO Lite’ at times.
So are magazine apps the future of monthly publishing? It appears so. Does the impending demise of print magazines mean the demise of quality automotive journalism? Definitely not.
EVO magazine logoThe EVO magazine app is available on iTunes, Google and Amazon stores.

GM to axe Chevrolet brand in Europe

Andrew Charman
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GM to axe Chevrolet brand in Europe

Chevrolet’s days on the UK market appear numbered after parent GM announced it is to axe the brand in Europe.

The US giant intends instead to focus on its core European brands, Opel and Vauxhall.

In a statement, GM says that after 2015 the Chevrolet brand will no longer have a mainstream presence in Western and Eastern Europe.

GM blames “a challenging business model and the difficult economic situation in Europe,” for the dropping of Chevrolet. It has struggled to make significant progress with the brand since relaunching in Europe, initially with rebadged cars from the collapsed and taken over Korean brand of Daewoo.

According to GM, the move will benefit Opel and Vauxhall and “reduce the complexity” caused by offering Chevrolet cars alongside them.

“Europe is a key region for GM that will benefit from a stronger Opel and Vauxhall and further emphasis on Cadillac,” says GM Chairman and CEO Dan Akerson. “For Chevrolet, it will allow us to focus our investments where the opportunity for growth is greatest.”

“This is a win for all four brands. It’s especially positive for car buyers throughout Europe, who will be able to purchase vehicles from well-defined, vibrant GM brands.”

Chevrolet will continue in Russia and the Commonwealth of Independent States, and in Western Europe will still iconic models such as the Camaro and Corvette.

Ramifications for European Chevrolet dealers have not yet been detailed, though many are located in joint centres with Vauxhall or Opel brands.

“Our customers can rest assured that we will continue to provide warranty, parts and services for their Chevrolet vehicles, and for vehicles purchased between now and the end of 2015,” says, Thomas Sedran, president and managing director of Chevrolet Europe.

Put the wrong fuel in your car? Three things to do before you panic

The Car Expert staff
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Put the wrong fuel in your car? Three things to do before you panic

Whether it’s because you’re driving a car that you’ve not used, the pumps weren’t clearly marked at the petrol station or you just had a momentary lapse in concentration, putting the wrong fuel in your car is easy to do.

Unfortunately, it always seems to happen at precisely the wrong time, leaving you late for work, or that first meeting with the new in-laws, or that plane that’s leaving in an hour.  And though you can’t magically undo what you’ve done, with a bit of common sense and calm, you can prevent the wrong fuel doing more unnecessary damage to your vehicle by following these easy steps.

1. Do not turn on your engine

Occasionally you won’t realise that you’ve put the wrong fuel in your car until you’re halfway down the motorway and your engine suddenly starts to lose power.  And if that’s the case, all you can do is call a breakdown assistance service and wait for them to come to the rescue.

However if you realise that you’ve used the wrong fuel before you’ve turned the engine on, then you’re in luck and could save yourself a lot of time and money.  This is because the moment you turn the engine on the fuel is drawn up into the system, further damaging your engine.

If your car normally runs on diesel, the fuel pump will ordinarily be lubricated by the diesel in order for it to run smoothly. However the petrol will act as a solvent, removing the lubrication and causing the metal parts to grate against each other.

If you put diesel into a petrol car, the potential damage isn’t as severe but it will still cause your engine to smoke a bit and run badly, so it’s best to get the diesel out as soon as possible.

By not turning your engine on you can save yourself a lot of hassle and make the repair man’s job a lot easier.

2. Calculate how much of the wrong fuel you have put in

Although it’s normally best to drain all of the fuel from your tank when you use the wrong fuel pump, if you realise your mistake while you’re still pumping, you may be able to get away with not calling out the repairman.

When you realise that you’ve used the wrong fuel, try to calculate how much you’ve pumped in. If it’s less than 10% of the tank capacity you should just be able to top up with the correct fuel and drive away.  However, if you’re unsure how much you’ve pumped in it’s always better to be safe than sorry and get the entire tank drained.

3. Call for assistance

Last but not least, you need to call your breakdown service to come and save the day.  Unless you’ve got some reliable mechanical skills, this job really needs a professional, so always call a reputable service to get you back on the road as fast as possible.

Although your breakdown service may be able to fix your car at the side of the road, if you’ve put a lot of the wrong fuel into your car, they may well have to transport your vehicle to a garage where they can carry out the necessary repairs more easily.

Putting the wrong fuel in your car is by no means unusual – in 2008 around 13 UK drivers an hour made the mistake – so if it happens to you, just remember to stay calm, keep your engine switched off and call the professionals.

You should also read: Premium petrol and diesel – are they worth the money?

Top seven DIY car detailing and cleaning tips

Stuart Masson
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Top seven DIY car detailing and cleaning tips

Taking your car to a professional detailer will certainly make it look beautifully shiny, but it will also certainly drain your bank account. However, it is possible for anyone to get a professional-looking result when cleaning your car yourself – with the right gear and some elbow grease.

Your car is a source of pride and you want it to look its best. As it is one of the most expensive purchases you’ll ever make, you want to ensure that you keep it in tip-top shape.

Many of the traditional methods of cleaning your car are dated, yet people still use them.  They’re proven to wear away the car’s paint and coating over time. Other methods have proven to damage other areas of the car. Let’s clear up some myths and get your car looking its best!

1. Make sure that your cleaning products are designed for cars

Often people look for the most cost-effective way of doing things, such as using household cleaners to wash the car. In the end, though, they end up spending more money to repair the damage they caused. Poor quality products result in a cheap finish. You can find great quality products within your price range that will enhance your car’s appearance.

If you insist on using household brands to clean your car, don’t be surprised when you find your tinted windows become damaged, especially if the product contains ammonia. Each automotive cleaning product contains ingredients that are specifically designed to tackle a specific problem, such as bugs on the bonnet or brake dust on your alloy wheels.

2. Don’t use ammonia to clean your car windows

Many glass cleaners contain ammonia, as it is powerful and can clean dirt and grime easily. Many cars, though, have tinted windows that use an adhesive film attached to the glass. Ammonia is so powerful that it can remove the tinting film on the windows, with horrible-looking results.

Since you’ve invested good money into having tinted windows, you’ll want to ensure that they last. Specially formulated automotive glass cleaners without ammonia have proven to be very effective in removing dirt, grease and other material residue on your tinted windows and mirrors without damaging it.

3. Before cleaning your car, test the product first

Different products can react differently with different cars and different materials. When trying out any new car cleaning product, test it out in an inconspicuous area first before going to town on the whole car. Then check for discolouration, damage, texture, and any other changes.

For example, a black leather cleaner may discolour your car’s beige leather seats. Be extra cautious when trying out a product for the first time.

4. Park your car in the shade while cleaning

If possible, it’s best to keep your car away from nature’s elements when cleaning it. The sun may dry out certain products too fast. As a result, the cleaning power can be reduced.

The products will be washed away too quickly. By keeping your car out of nature’s elements, your car will be cleaned more thoroughly.

5. Clean your car twice a month

Cleaning your car regularly will prevents dir from getting caked onto the bodywork, which makes it much more difficult to remove later on.

Rather than cleaning once every couple of months and doing an extremely aggressive clean, it’s advised that you clean more regularly to reduce exerting more energy in removing caked-on dirt. Cleaning your car’s interior also prevents deep stains and bad odours from building up as well.

6.  Use colour-coded microfibre cloths

Ideally, when washing your car you should have three microfibre cloths in different colours to distinguish their individual uses. The best detailers will tell you that you should use different microfibre cloths.

For example, you wouldn’t use the same cloth on your car’s body as you would on the tyres. There is far more dirt that gets caked onto tyres, requiring its own cloth. You also need a separate cloth for the interior of your car.

You also need to ensure that you don’t wash microfibre cloths with your regular cotton items as it can build up lint. Also make sure you avoid fabric softeners.

7. Be patient!

When detailing a vehicle, you need to be patient. Professional detailers don’t rush a job because if they did it wouldn’t look perfect. You need to work through each part of the car without taking any shortcuts.

The final result from a thorough cleaning always pays off. Start from the inside and work your way out.  The reason for this is that when you clean the outside first sometimes the dirt from inside the car gets onto the exterior afterwards requiring you to clean the outside again. When you do clean the outside, start from the top down to the bottom.

How to deal with a tyre blowout

The Car Expert staff
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How to deal with a tyre blowout

Tyre blowouts are a much rarer occurrence than they ever used to be, thanks largely to the improved design and quality of modern tyres. When they do occur, however, they can be extremely dangerous and scary, especially when you are doing seventy miles per hour on a busy motorway.

How to prevent a tyre blowout

The most common reason for a tyre blowout is that the tyre is under-inflated. This is particularly true with van tyres when the vehicle is heavily loaded, but also applies to cars and other vehicles.

Under-inflated tyres bulge out under the vehicle’s weight which means that when the vehicle is driven at speed, the tyre bounces up and down. This movement of the tyre wall generates a high level of friction which means that heat is also produced. This heat can weaken the tyre and result in a burst or in some cases, a tyre fire.

So to avoid blowouts, check that all of your tyres are inflated to the correct pressure and check the tyres for any existing bulges which may indicate a fault in the tyre wall. A bulging tyre should be replaced immediately.

Be sure not to over-inflate tyres as this can also result in bursting. Consult your handbook for the correct pressures and check them regularly; it really could be a matter of life and death.

What to do during a tyre blowout

The most important thing to do is to stay calm and think straight. If the blowout occurs to a front tyre, be sure to hold your steering wheel very tightly and stabilise the car.

The car will try to go to the direction of the blown tyre, which will take you either into other traffic or into the central reservation (if you are on the motorway or dual-carriageway). So, you need to grip the wheel tightly and correct the car as best you can.

Try to avoid braking if you can, but if you do need to brake, do so very gently. Hard braking can exaggerate the pull on the car to the right or left and could cause an accident, so brake gradually and be prepared to correct the car.

If possible, let the car come to a natural stop and try to get over to the hard shoulder as fast as you can.

If it is the rear tyre that goes, again grip the wheel and correct any swerve. However, controlled braking is now a good idea. Braking shifts the weight of the vehicle to the front tyres, giving the driver control again. Braking should be gentle, as with front tyre blowouts, and some serious correction may well be needed.

If the car slides around too much whilst braking, come off the brake and change down a gear or two to slow the car. This can cause the car to lurch, so be prepared and make sure that there are no tailgaters behind you before using your gears to slow the car.

How does a diesel engine work?

The Car Expert staff
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How does a diesel engine work?

We are often asked how a diesel engine works and what makes it different to a petrol engine. As a fuel substance, diesel is denser, slower to evaporate and easier to refine than petrol. These qualities make it cheaper, and more efficient in terms of mileage, than petrol. 

While petrol and diesel engines work in mostly the same way, the methods behind them differ.

Like a petrol engine, a diesel engine uses a four-stroke combustion cycle. Air is let into the cylinder as the piston moves down (first stroke), and is then compressed as the piston moves back up again (second stroke).

As the piston reaches the top of the cylinder, diesel fuel is injected and ignites, with the resulting explosion forcing the piston back down (third stroke). The final stroke is as the piston moves back up again, forcing the exhaust products out of the exhaust valve (fourth stroke).

The benefits of a diesel engine

Diesel is a less volatile fuel than petrol, so in order to ignite more easily, the combustion chamber needs to be preheated. This is done by injecting air into the cylinder. The air is drawn in and passed through a cleaner, which is about the same size as would be found on a petrol engine.

The air is then compressed by the piston, which heats the air to a very high degree so that when the diesel is injected, the fuel ignites instantaneously.

This is why a diesel engine is often described as a compression-ignition engine. In a petrol engine, fuel and air are mixed together first, and then ignited by a spark plug. A diesel engine does not require a spark plug.

Installing a turbocharger allows more air to be drawn into the engine, which can have the effect of increasing the power of diesel fuel by half again, whilst lowering fuel consumption by up to a quarter.

The difference with diesel engines

Many diesel engines still have glow plugs, which act to heat the cylinder, and are generally needed for starting in cold temperatures. Before the fuel can be injected into the cylinder, it has to be filtered and compressed. Filtering is important, as contaminants in the fuel can clog the holes in the injector nozzles.

Next the fuel passes through the fuel injection pump, which pressurises it to around 24,000 psi (pounds per square inch). By comparison, in a petrol engine the fuel is usually kept at a pressure of between just 10 to 50psi.

Diesel advances

Diesel engines were once considered to be dirty and primarily for agricultural purposes. However, engine manufacturers have made significant improvements in the way diesel engines work, making them much cleaner, quieter and more efficient. Diesel cars now account for over half of all new car sales in the UK. It is true, though, that diesel engines produce more local pollution than petrol engines.

While not necessarily ideal for regular low-mileage trips, a diesel engine’s superior fuel economy usually makes it a good choice for drivers who need to travel long distances.

Further reading:

What to do after a car accident

The Car Expert staff
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What to do after a car accident

Unfortunately, almost every car owner has been involved in a car accident. Thankfully, modern cars provide a very high level of safety and most accidents are relatively minor. Car insurance also means that most accidents are easy to solve and recover from.

There are situations that are more difficult to handle, however. Let’s have a look at the things you need to do when you find yourself in a car accident.

Move away with your car

After an accident, you may feel the need to stop in the same position. This might seem beneficial, but if possible it is important to give other road users space to move on, to avoid further accidents or other dangerous situations.

Many a minor car accident has become much more serious when another car has subsequently become involved. Once you have moved your car to a safe position, it is important to turn the engine off so that leaking fluids cannot catch fire.

After this put on the hazard lights and, if you have them, place warning triangles to warn oncoming traffic.

Safety first!

When the car is in a safe position you should check if your fellow passengers are fine and whether those in the other car have sustained any injuries. When someone is injured severely, do not waste any time and call the emergency services.

Call the emergency services

Inspect the damage that has been done to your car. When you think the damage will cost you more than £1,000 you should call the police.

Also, call the cops when any traffic law has been broken. Laws that might have been broken can include switching lanes without indicating, overlapping, or when drugs or alcohol have possibly impaired the driver’s judgement.

Gather details

Make a note of the licence plate, model and make of the cars involved. Ask for the driver’s name, driving license number and phone number. Do not forget to write down the other driver’s insurance number and the company that provides his or her cover. This makes things easier for the police when they arrive at the scene.

Write down where the car accident took place

Jot down the name of the road or street where the accident has happened. You can also write down an address or intersections that are nearby. Also draw a sketch of the scene.

You can do this with a drawing but you can also use your smartphone to take pictures. Take a photo of the position of the cars and the damage that has been done.

Contact the insurance company

If the accident has just happened and you’re at the scene your memory of the accident is still fresh. This will give them the most accurate account of the situation. Your insurance company will help you construct a report of the accident and guide you through the claiming process. Your insurance company will now be able to start looking into the claim for you.

Talk with the police

Try to stay neutral when you are explaining the incident to the police. Do not make any assumptions about whose fault it is. Police agents are trained to assess what has happened and determine who is in the right.

Be honest and don’t make contact with the insurance company of the other party involved. Your insurance company will look into these matters for you.

Now you know what to do after a car accident you will be better able to keep your cool and take care of the situation correctly.

Let’s hope you’ll not find yourself in a situation like this any time soon, though!

Budget tyres vs premium tyres

The Car Expert staff
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Budget tyres vs premium tyres

If you have bought replacement tyres for your vehicle, you’ll know that there’s a huge range of tyres available for virtually any car. From world-renowned premium brands at premium prices, to a wide choice of mid-range tyres, to budget tyres from brands that you’ve probably never heard of, the choice can be mind-boggling.

Unsurprisingly, choosing the right tyre for your car and for the mileage and conditions in which you drive can be a confusing business. And with a huge differential in terms of the price of premium and budget tyres, often the temptation is to aim for value without giving consideration to whether premium tyres are worth their weight in… well, rubber.

Premium tyres

For premium tyres, think Bridgestone, Continental, Dunlop, Goodyear, Michelin, Pirelli and so on. These are the tyres that, although black and round like their cheaper counterparts, will deflate your bank account faster than your last blowout.

But by purchasing a premium tyre, you are also paying for the huge sums invested in tyre technology, engineering and safety testing that goes into making these tyres both hard-wearing and safe.

In product tests, premium brands consistently outperform their cheaper rivals, offering improved wear, grip and fuel efficiency. If you tend to cover many miles each year or engage in a lot of high speed driving such as on motorways, then these tyres could be well worth shelling out a little extra for.

Mid-range brands

Sandwiched between the upper and lower echelons of the tyre market are the mid-range brands, which tend to sport familiar premium brand names or are often manufactured by premium brands under a different name. As one example, Firestone tyres are made by Bridgestone.

These tyres are often a good compromise for general use, offering more in the way of wear and fuel efficiency than the cheapest alternatives and benefiting from the same technology invested in the premium brands, but at a more reasonable price.

Budget tyres

The key question concerning budget tyres is whether you get what you pay for and whether buying cheaper tyres is actually economical in the long run. The answer is a confusing “possibly”.

As with cars themselves, there are a growing number of tyre brands coming from China, with names you may not recognise. Their tyres are cheaper – often significantly – than equivalent size tyres from big-name Western brands.

Under gentle loads – slower speeds and short journeys on sunny days – such tyres may be perfectly capable. But when pushed harder, or in an emergency situation, they are unlikely to perform as well as more expensive tyres.

If cost is a serious consideration, a budget tyre is a preferable option to buying used tyres.

Improved labelling

With EU requirements now in force for tyre manufacturers to provide clear performance labelling on tyres, consumers are able to make a more reasoned judgement about the tyres that are most suited to their vehicle, their journeys and their style of driving.

Cruise control and how to use it to your advantage

Stuart Masson
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Cruise control and how to use it to your advantage

Cruise control can be intimidating for drivers who have never used it, as they can feel like they are no longer in control of the car. Once you become familiar with how cruise control works and get used to it, however, you may find it a real benefit to your driving.

Your car’s cruise control function can make longer journeys more comfortable and can even help to save money on fuel. In addition, the cruise control feature will allow you to maintain your speed limit and avoid speeding fines.

Cruise control is primarily suited for those who are going to be driving at a steady speed without constant stopping. So a motorway is far more suitable than a street with frequent traffic lights.

Each car has a slightly different layout for the cruise control controls, but they are usually located on the steering wheel or a column stalk behind the steering wheel. The main controls are ‘Set’, ‘Cancel’, ‘Resume’ and ‘On/Off’.

You can usually adjust the programmed speed up or down using the same buttons – check your owner’s manual for specific instructions for your car. To initiate cruise control for your car, you must first accelerate to the desired speedand then press ‘set’. Your car will now maintain its current speed without the need to keep your foot on the accelerator.

Turning off cruise control is as simple as applying the brake, pressing the ‘cancel’ or ‘on/off’ buttons or pushing the clutch pedal in a manual car. The feature is set up so that even a gentle tap of the brake pedal will shut cruise control off, requiring you to control the speed using your accelerator again.

Most cruise control systems will allow you to return to your previously programmed speed by pressing ‘resume’.

Cruise control improves your comfort while driving

You can comfortably take long road trips without putting strain on your legs through having to hold your foot in a set position for extended periods to manually control the gas pedal and speed.

With cruise control activated, you can sit back, relax your right leg, and steer your vehicle. When you need to slow down or stop, simply tap the brakes to deactivate.

Cruise control gives you better control over your speed

If you tend to be a bit heavy on the accelerator or have a habit of speeding, the cruise control feature can be your best friend. Activate this feature to maintain the speed limit and avoid those expensive speeding tickets.

It also prevents you from creeping over the speed limit accidentally. When the speed limits change, you can easily adjust your cruise control settings to match.

Cruise control can improve your fuel consumption

Keeping your driving speeds steady can help you save money on fill-ups. Most drivers are fairly inconsistent at maintaining a given speed, instead of creeping up and drifting down as you drive along a road as you manually adjust relative to the speed limit and road conditions such as hills. Accelerating and braking continuously will use considerably more fuel than maintaining a set speed.

Faster drivers can save money on fuel by not speeding and then over-using the brakes to regularly come back down to the speed limit or slow down for other drivers. The faster you drive, the more fuel you will use.

Each 5 mph over 50 mph lowers the mileage that you can expect to get. Get into the habit of using cruise control to counter any aggressive driving tendencies.

Cruise control can work to your advantage in a variety of ways. Be sure to read your car’s user manual for specific details on how to operate your vehicle’s cruise control feature. Also remember that when using cruise control, you won’t have to control your accelerator – but you still must control the brake pedal at all times. In addition, the brake pedal will disable cruise control, so be aware if the brake pedal is accidentally hit or pressed while driving.

Dacia Sandero review

Andrew Charman
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Dacia Sandero review

What is it: Budget supermini, backed by Renault
Key features: Spacious, quality far above basement price
Our view: The Dacia Sandero is a thoroughly competent supermini that performs way above its price.

Dacia is in many ways the brand of the moment – acquired by Renault in 1999, the Romanian budget marque is now being launched into the UK by its guardian – and in the process providing a bright spot in difficult times for the French state brand.

Dacia Sandero interior

The launch model, the Duster SUV, received positive reviews, especially considering it costs from a mere £8,995. And now Dacia has a real attention-grabbing headline in the Sandero – a brand new supermini for under £6,000?

Actually the starting price – £5,995 – is not quite all it might seem to be, as we’ll see shortly. But equally, it’s by no means the only reason buyers should be looking at this car – it’s a lot more than its price.

UK journalists had their first driving experience of the Dacia Sandero at the same event that they first sat in the new Renault Clio – which at first glance might seem like Renault scoring an own goal.

The marketing man justified this move with the suggestion that Renault is moving into more expressive, Latin territory, while Dacia is fulfilling the more Germanic, functional role – the name Volkswagen was mentioned more than once…

You know what? He wasn’t far wrong… From the outside the car looks, well like many other superminis on today’s market. It’s not head-turning, particularly memorable, but that’s also a positive – it says mainstream car, it doesn’t say budget car.

And when one slips behind the wheel of the Sandero, the immediate impression is of a well put-together, no frills supermini. The joins are good, the plastics not too hard to the touch – it really did remind me of some German-owned cars I’ve driven.

The other big plus on the inside is the space. It doesn’t look a massive car from the exterior, but it outstretches its rivals in several key areas – shoulder and elbow room for example, rear knee room, and particularly bootspace. It’s 320 litres (most rivals struggle to beat 300) and rises to 1,200 with the rear seats folded.

There are three engine options – a 1.2-litre four-cylinder petrol, the three-cylinder 900cc petrol familiar from recent Renault models, and a 1.5-litre diesel. The Car Expert drove the two petrol engines – diesels remain a niche buy in supermini land.

Dacia management believes that around half of the Sandero buyers will choose the 1.2 unit of 74bhp. We’re guessing that’s due to cost – there’s a trim level and £1,400 between separating the cheapest versions of the two units. Having driven both, a car fitted with the smaller but more powerful and thus quicker TCe 90 is by far a much more enjoyable experience.

The 1.2 is adequate – but only so. The 14.5 seconds it takes to get to 62mph feels laboured, whereas the 89 horses of the little TCe 90 propel it enthusiastically through the mark in a tad over 11 seconds.

Neither feels quite as refined as their perceived more upmarket rivals – something which does become obvious if immediately after driving the Dacia Sandero one jumps into one of those rivals, such as the Clio. Maybe it’s a case of extra soundproofing, more time, and money, spent on the motor industry nemesis Noise Vibration and Harshness. But, the Sandero is not bad in this area, and most owners will be quite happy with it.

On the road the car handles with competence and predictability. There’s nothing stand-out here, but there’s no reason for it to be – the Sandero is a very easy to live with car, which is all many (most?) supermini owners will want. And then we get to the price…

We mentioned that the £5,995 was not all it seemed. It gets you the entry-level Access with the 1.2 engine. It comes with the essentials, airbags, electronic Stability Control, but little else – you don’t even get a radio. And you can only have it in white with big black bumpers (see below) – even Dacia insiders dub it their ‘UN vehicle’…

dacia-sandero-02

Far better is to go for the Ambience, £6,595 with the 1.2, £7,395 with the TCe 90. Now the bumpers match the body, you can have it not in white, and you get more kit, topped by remote central locking, electric front winds and yes, a CD radio with MP3 capability, Bluetooth and and Aux socket.

So far, Dacia has seen most buyers choosing the top spec Laureate grade, which adds rather a lot to the list. Notable among them are lots of extra styling, leather on the steering wheel and gearknob, a trip computer, cruise control, heated electric mirrors, fog lights, and vitally, manual air conditioning.

To buy a Dacia Sandero Laureate with the 1.2 engine will cost you £7,995 – two grand more than that under 6K headline grabber. With the more desirable TCe 90, it’s £8,795.

But – and it’s a big but… The cheapest new Clio – with the same 1.2 engine and admittedly with much of the equipment you get on the top-spec Sandero (like a trip computer, and a sound system…) costs £10,595 – more than £2,500 more.

So what we have here is a thoroughly competent supermini, that in many ways performs way above its price. We think several previous used car buyers are going to become new car buyers, and that Dacia is going to sell a fair few Sanderos… 

Dacia Sandero – key specifications

Model Tested: Dacia Sandero TCe 90, 1.2 16v 75
On Sale: January 2013
Price: £5,995-£9,795
Engine: Petrol 1.2/898cc, Diesel 1.5
Power (bhp): 74/89, 89
Torque (lb/ft): 79/100, 162
0-62mph (sec): 14.5/11.1, 12.1
Top speed (mph): 97/109, 107
Fuel economy (combined, mpg): 47.9/54.3, 74.3
CO2 emissions (g/km): 137/120, 99
Key rivals: Ford Fiesta, Vauxhall Corsa, Volkswagen Polo
Test date: February 2013

Can you give a car dealer cash?

Stuart Masson
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5
Can you give a car dealer cash?

“Can you give a car dealer cash?”  Asked by an anonymous Google searcher, August 2012

Car dealers are almost always very reluctant to take more than about £500 in actual cash (the paper, folding kind), although the amount will vary from dealer to dealer.

Money laundering has ruined it for everyone

The motor industry has been targeted by money launderers in the last few years, and a few car dealers have been caught out badly when they found out that the thousand of pounds of cash they had been given was counterfeit.  If a car dealer suspects a buyer of possible money laundering or fraud activity, they are required to report it to the police immediately.

The car industry presents a relatively easy target for money laundering and fraud, as a car can be removed from the UK within hours of taking delivery, usually well before the car dealer can get the cash to the bank or before any fraud can be discovered.

Most car dealers no longer accept personal cheques or bank drafts either, as they take several days to clear (up to 10 working days for a personal cheque) and can easily be forged.

How to pay a car dealer by cash for your car

Usually, a car dealer will want you to either pay by debit card on the day, or transfer the amount electronically into their account before you collect your car.  If a car dealer allows you to use a credit card, they will usually require you to pay the credit card merchant fee as well (which can run to hundreds of pounds).

If you are reluctant to transfer your full payment via electronic transfer (BACS or CHAPS) in advance, the best bet is to pay by debit card when you pick up your car.  This will usually involve calling your bank in advance to advise that you intend to make a large transaction very soon, and they may well require you to call and confirm when the transaction is being processed, but it is a safe and secure way of paying for your car from a car dealer.

Do big alloy wheels crack more easily?

Stuart Masson
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0
Do big alloy wheels crack more easily?

“Do big alloy wheels crack more easily?”  Asked by an anonymous Google searcher, August 2012.

For the purposes of this question, we need to assume we are talking about different size alloy wheels on the same car, as you can’t compare smaller wheels on one car with larger wheels on a completely different car.  If you choose larger alloy wheels for your car (for example, going from 16-inch wheels to 18-inch wheels), you need new tyres to fit them, and this can potentially cause cracking of your wheels.

The law says that, when changing the wheels on your car, the rolling height must stay basically the same (although there is a small tolerance allowed), so fitting larger-diameter wheels to your car require tyres with lower-profile sidewalls, as shown here, to maintain the same overall rolling height.

The tyre sidewall flexes to absorb bumps and impacts, so a tyre with less sidewall (a low profile tyre, like the one on the right) has less ability to flex than a tyre with more sidewall (a high profile tyre, like the one on the left).

The reduced flex on a lower profile tyre means it is less able to absorb shocks and impacts from potholes, kerbs and speed humps, which means that if you give a kerb a big whack, you are more likely to damage the tyres and/or the alloy wheels.  It would take a fair old hit, though, so it may not ever happen to you.

So yes, bigger alloy wheels will potentially crack more easily than a smaller one on the same car.  Or, of course, you could just avoid kerbing your wheels… ;)

Further reading on alloy wheels

The Wheel Deal: Why do some drivers spend thousands of pounds upgrading the wheels on their cars?

Car finance: What you should know

Stuart Masson
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153
Car finance: What you should know

Car finance has become big business. A huge number of new and used car buyers in the UK are making their vehicle purchase on finance of some sort.

It might be in the form of a bank loan, finance from the dealership, leasing, credit card, the trusty ‘Bank of Mum & Dad’, or myriad other forms of finance, but relatively few people actually buy a car with their own cash anymore.

A generation ago, a private car buyer with, say, £8,000 cash to spend would usually have bought a car up to the value of £8,000. Today, that same £8,000 is more likely to be used as a deposit on a car which could be worth many tens of thousands, followed by up to five years of monthly payments.

With various manufacturers and dealers claiming that anywhere between 50% and 95% of car purchases are today being made on finance of some sort, it is not surprising that there are lots of people jumping on the car finance bandwagon to profit from buyers’ desires to have the newest, flashiest car available within their monthly cashflow limits.

The appeal of financing a car is very straightforward; you can buy a car which costs a lot more than you can afford up-front, but can (hopefully) manage in small monthly chunks of cash over a period of time. The problem with car finance is that many buyers don’t realise that they usually end up paying far more than the face value of the car, and they don’t read the fine print of car finance agreements to understand the implications of what they’re signing up for.

For clarification, The Car Expert is neither pro- or anti-finance when buying a car. What you must be wary of, however, are the full implications of financing a car – not just when you buy the car, but over the full term of the finance and even afterwards. The industry is heavily regulated by the FCA (Financial Conduct Authority, formerly the Financial Services Authority), but the FCA can’t make you read documents carefully or force you to make prudent car finance decisions.

You may also like: The Car Expert’s epic car finance glossary 

Car finance – financing through the dealership

For 90% of all new car buyers, and about half of used car buyers, financing the car through the dealership where you are buying the car now the preferred option. There are also often national offers and programs which can make financing the car through the dealer an attractive option.

This blog will focus on the two main types of car finance offered by car dealers for private car buyers: the Hire Purchase (HP) and the Personal Contract Purchase (PCP), with a brief mention of a third, the Lease Purchase (LP). Leasing contracts will be discussed in another blog coming soon.

Hire Purchase (HP)

A hire purchase (HP) is quite like a mortgage on your house; you pay a deposit up-front and then pay the rest off over an agreed period (usually 18-60 months). Once you have made your final payment, the car is officially yours. This is the way that car finance has operated for many years, but is now starting to lose favour against the PCP option below.

There are several benefits to a Hire Purchase. It is simple to understand (deposit plus a number of fixed monthly payments), and the buyer can choose the deposit and the term (number of payments) to suit their needs. You can choose a term of up to five years (60 months), which is longer than most other finance options.

You can usually cancel the agreement at any time if your circumstances change without massive penalties (although the amount owing may be more than your car is worth early on in the agreement term). Usually you will end up paying less in total with an HP than a PCP if you plan to keep the car after the finance is paid off.

The main disadvantage of an HP compared to a PCP is higher monthly payments, meaning the value of the car you can usually afford is less.

An HP is usually best for buyers who; plan to keep their cars for a long time (ie – longer than the finance term), have a large deposit, or want a simple car finance plan with no sting in the tail at the end of the agreement.

Now read this: Car finance – the hire purchase (HP) explained

Personal Contract Purchase (PCP)

A PCP is often given other names by manufacturer finance companies (eg – BMW Select, Volkswagen Solutions, Toyota Access, etc.), and is very popular but more complicated than an HP. Most new car finance offers advertised these days are PCPs, and usually a dealer will try and push you towards a PCP over an HP because it is more likely to be better for them.

Like the HP above, you pay a deposit and have monthly payments over a term.  However, the monthly payments are lower and/or the term is shorter (usually a maximum of 48 months) because you are not paying off the whole car.

At the end of the term, there is still a large chunk of the finance unpaid.  This is usually called a GMFV (guaranteed minimum future value). The car finance company guarantees that, within certain conditions, the car will be worth at least as much as the remaining finance owed. This gives you three options:
1)   Give the car back.
2)   Pay out the remaining amount owed (the GMFV) and keep the car.
3)   Part-exchange the car for a new (or newer) one.

The PCP is best suited for people who want a new or near-new car and fully intend to change it at the end of the agreement. For a private buyer, it usually works out cheaper than a lease or contract hire finance product.

You are not tied into going back to the same manufacturer or dealership for your next car, as any dealer can pay out the finance for your car and conclude the agreement on your behalf. It is also good for buyers who want a more expensive car with a lower cashflow than is usually possible with an HP.

The disadvantage of a PCP is that it tends to lock you into a cycle of changing your car every few years to avoid a large payout at the end of the agreement (the GMFV).

Borrowing money to pay out the GMFV and keep the car usually gives you a monthly payment that is very little cheaper than starting again on a new PCP with a new car, so it nearly always sways the owner into replacing it with another car. For this reason, manufacturers and dealers love PCPs because it keeps you coming back every three years, rather than keeping your car for five to ten years or longer.

Now read this: Car finance – the personal contract purchase (PCP) explained

Lease Purchase (LP)

An LP is a bit of a hybrid between an HP and a PCP. You have a deposit and low monthly payments like a PCP, with a large final payment at the end of the agreement. However, unlike a PCP, this final payment (often called a balloon) is not guaranteed.

This means that if your car is worth less than the amount owing and you want to sell/part-exchange it, you would have to pay out any difference (called negative equity) before even thinking about paying a deposit on your next car.

Read the fine print

What is absolutely essential for anyone buying a car on finance is to read the contract and consider it carefully before signing anything. Plenty of people make the mistake of buying a car on finance and then end up being unable to make their monthly payments.

Given that your finance period may last for the next five years, it is critical that you carefully consider what may happen in your life over those next five years. Many heavily-financed sports cars have had to be returned, often with serious financial consequences for the owners, because of unexpected pregnancies!

Always ensure you understand the various finance options being presented to you, and that you are aware of the pros and cons of different car finance products to ensure you are making informed decisions about your money.

Now read this: Before you apply for car finance

Disclaimer
Most car finance agreements in the UK are regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority, and anyone involved in the selling of car finance must be accredited by the FCA. You should always consider the terms and conditions of any agreement carefully before taking out any form of car finance, as you are making a substantial ongoing commitment and there may be significant costs if you change your mind or are unable to meet your commitments at a later date.

Are diesel cars suitable for city driving?

Stuart Masson
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41
Are diesel cars suitable for city driving?

Following on from previous articles about the differences between petrol and diesel engines, and explaining why your fuel economy doesn’t usually match the official figures for your car, The Car Expert looks more closely at the suitability of diesel cars for use in city driving.

One of the most frequent questions submitted to The Car Expert is “Are diesel cars suitable for city driving?”  The answer is… maybe!

A diesel engine generates its power slightly differently from a petrol engine, and usually yields better economy and load-carrying ability, albeit with less power and a slower response time. This is why buses and trucks usually run on diesel – they are big, heavy vehicles carrying large loads over long distances.

But what about city driving? Does the extra cost of a diesel engine yield savings in running costs for urban drivers or those who only take short journeys?

Diesel in the city – fuel economy

Firstly, short journeys. Any engine is very inefficient when it is cold, so the first 15 minutes or so of any journey will not yield very good fuel consumption regardless of the advertised fuel economy of the vehicle. So if your journey involves a short commute to work or trip to the shops, you will get quite poor fuel economy in either a diesel or petrol car.

Secondly, stop-start driving. Even once your engine has warmed up thoroughly, it is still not operating efficiently if you are constantly accelerating, braking and sitting at traffic lights.

And because a diesel engine tends to lag and be a bit more sluggish off the mark than an equivalent petrol engine, but stronger once it gets up and running, there is a tendency to put your foot down harder to get it to respond and then have to lift off or even brake again to slow it back down as it starts to take off over about 20mph.

This sort of driving uses more fuel than smoothly applying accelerator and brake. It is certainly possible to drive a diesel smoothly, but it takes a bit of practice and constant anticipation. Meanwhile, sitting idling at traffic lights uses fuel regardless of whether its petrol or diesel, so you are simply wasting fuel with both.

Mechanical issues – the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF)

Diesel cars built since about 2008 (sometimes earlier) come fitted with a diesel particulate filter (DPF). This device collects the black soot particles you see belching from older diesel engines, especially when the engine is cold. The DPF stores this soot until the filter unit reaches a certain temperature and then proceeds to burn off the soot. It still ends up in the atmosphere, but as much finer, invisible particles rather than ugly black smoke, and is less of a health hazard (allegedly, but this is disputed).

This is good, right? Well, yes, but…

To get the filter trap hot enough to burn off the soot, the engine needs to have been running for at least 15-20 minutes and it then takes another 10-15 minutes to burn the soot and clean the filter.

When DPFs were first launched into the car world, most people didn’t realise this – including the dealers who sold the cars – and so customers were unaware they even had such a device. If the driver does not regularly (ie – about once a week to once a fortnight) go for a drive of at least half an hour, the filter trap clogs up. In addition to not filtering the diesel soot properly, continued or repeated clogging will eventually destroy the filter, requiring a very expensive replacement.

So, if your regular use of your car does not involve a regular drive of 20-30 minutes, you need to make a special trip just to clear your DPF every week or two, which is hardly helping your fuel bills.

Cars built since about 2012-ish usually feature better-designed DPFs and improved engine computer controls which allow faster and more efficient burning off of the soot, so it is now less of a problem than before, but it is still a problematic issue for dealers who have to deal with irate customers objecting to paying hundreds of pounds to replace their DPF when they weren’t made aware of it.

This is even more of an issue for used car buyers who have almost certainly not been given a proper explanation by the dealer and consequently are more likely to run into trouble.

Misfuelling – filling up with the wrong fuel

One other hazard is misfuelling, and it happens a lot more often than you’d think – according to the AA, 150,000 people do it each year, or once every three-and-a-half minutes!

Putting diesel fuel in a petrol engine is very bad news, and putting petrol in a diesel engine is even worse. When switching from one sort of engine to another, such as when you buy a new car or in multi-car households, it is an easy mistake to fill up the tank with the wrong fuel.

Damage caused by mis-fuelling is not normally covered by warranty, so you could be up for thousands of pounds if the engine has been damaged. Even if you don’t destroy your engine, it is still an expensive and time-consuming exercise to have the car towed away, drained and cleaned out before you can drive it again.

This isn’t a problem of diesel engines per se, but if you are considering switching from a petrol car or already have another petrol car in the household, it’s worth keeping in mind.

Summary

All of the above suggests that buying a diesel car for mainly city driving is not a great idea. However, it also depends on your overall mileage and how much load (passengers, luggage, trailers, etc) you are putting on the car.

The very broad advice usually given around the industry is that an annual mileage of over 10,000 miles/year over three years is about the threshold for choosing a diesel car over a similar petrol one. However, it also depends on the type of car you are looking at, how long you’re planning to keep it, what sort of deals you can get on one or the other, and so on.

Volvo V40 review

Andrew Charman
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0
Volvo V40 review

What is it?
C-segment five-door hatch, Volvo’s first in 20 years

Key features
Lower price/higher spec than rivals, class-leading safety

Our view
This is one Volvo that the Germans should be concerned about.

When journalists arrived for the UK launch of the all-new Volvo V40, also in the car park awaiting evaluation were examples of the car’s direct rivals, the Audi A3 and BMW 1 Series.

Allowing such a direct comparison between the Volvo and its competition is a first as far as this reviewer can recall, and a brave move by the Swedish brand. Clearly, Volvo is confident in its new contender, which it describes as its most important car in 20 years.

The V40 has a lot riding on it. This car, a five-door hatch, will eventually replace both the existing S40 saloon and V50 estate, and is the brand’s first serious contender in the highly competitive C-segment since the 440, last built about 20 years ago…

Volvo’s own management admits that the brand sits in a slightly odd position in the UK market. While pitching itself as a premium brand, it’s not quite regarded on the same page as Audi, BMW or Mercedes-Benz, but it is definitely above the volume market. The V40 will aid that image – appealing mainly to mainstream drivers wanting to move up, but also very much targeting Audi/BMW drivers fancying a change.

The car is a prime weapon in Volvo’s bid to boost its volume beyond the 37,000 it currently sells a year in the UK, towards 50,000. To compare – in the days of the 440, Volvo was selling 80,000 cars a year.

  • Volvo V40 hatchback - front
  • Volvo V40 hatchback - rear

The Volvo V40 is expected to clock up around 12,000 a year, compared to the 10,000 the S40/V50 earned between them. UK boss Nick Connor admits this is conservative, but adds that he isn’t chasing volume for volume’s sake. He is adamant this car must maintain a premium image.

So does it live up to the billing? Well, first impressions are good – in this case, first experiencing the car directly after half an hour in the Audi (admittedly the about-to-be-replaced version of the A3) and the BMW. It’s clear immediately that outside and in, the Volvo is a direct rival to them.

It’s a cliché to recall old boxy Volvos when talking about today’s, but it’s important to emphasise that the V40 is a very smart-looking car equal to if not ahead of its rivals.

The front-end is sharp, the notable styling cue the tapered headlamps clearly evolved from those on the larger S60 saloon. The rear, meanwhile, comes direct from that brand-redefining hatch the C30, with its signature glass tailgate.

Inside is well built and very well styled – something admittedly we’ve got used to in recent Volvos. Dominating the driver’s field of view is the new digital dash, with its speedo that illuminates only the part of the dial that the stalk is aiming at, and its three modes, activated by the interior stalk.

These modes are called ‘Elegant’, ‘Eco’ and ‘Sport’ and offer different parameters and information – the first is rather dull, Eco is cool and blue and we reckon most likely to be left permanently on, while Sport is bright red with your speed shown in large digital numbers in the centre of the dial. Rather neat…

  • Volvo V40 dashboard
  • Volvo V40 digital instruments

Yet the style is equally signified by detail touches – some of the most frequent praise on the launch event was angled at the rear-view mirror, the simple act of removing the frame adding so much to its style.

One criticism is the handbrake lever that sits to the left of the centre console – clearly a left-hand drive feature that Volvo didn’t bother to change. A minor thing maybe, but if your front-seat passenger is anything more than petite you don’t really want to be touching their right thigh whilst trying to put the brake on…

We wouldn’t call the Volvo V40 over-generous on space. Rear-seat room is cosy, and the boot space not that convenient with a high loading sill, though the twin floor boot compartment is useful.

Volvo has long been known for its safety, with seemingly a new innovation with every launch. The V40 majors on new airbags – a knee one for the driver, and a pedestrian one. A what?

Volvo V40 pedestrian airbag

Yup, the Swedes have gone one step further than the impact absorbing pop-up bonnet. An unlucky soul hit by the car will be thrown onto said bonnet which will pop up – and then shoot an airbag out of its back, across both the gap and the lower part of the windscreen…

With this feature heading a long, long list of now-familiar features such as the auto brake-applying City Safety (which along with the pedestrian airbag is standard on all V40s), there’s no need to speculate on the likelihood of a top five-star Euro-NCAP rating for this car…

The current engine choice is two petrol and three diesel, with a third petrol unit on the way in a few months’ time. Trying out the lowest-powered variants of each, it’s easy to see why the 115hp diesel is expected to take almost two-thirds of V40 sales.

The 150hp entry-level petrol is confident, refined and a thoroughly satisfactory companion, and almost three seconds faster to 62mph than its oil-burning rival. Yet the diesel feels more eager, due no doubt to the impressive low-down torque, while remaining equally refined. And it offers a tax-busting 94g/km emissions figure.

  • Volvo V40 dynamic front
  • Volvo V40 dynamic rear

Less impressive is the manual gearbox – a six-speed is standard across the range, but it could do with being more direct. Our test drive was accompanied with the odd woolly downshift, confidence slightly dented as we questioned whether it really had selected fourth instead of sixth.

On the road the Volvo V40 is very well behaved, soaking up the bumps and offering the ride comfort one expects of a fleet-angled motorway muncher. But presented with more challenging tarmac it delivers, with sharp, responsive handling that on our test was easily as good as the BMW and rather ahead of the Audi.

In summary, Volvo has a winner here. The V40 is a car that really should be considered by ‘premium’ buyers (a word that Connor admits he hates), and not just with prices that start with the smaller diesel in ES spec at £19,745. Yes, the potential money saved is a factor, but the specification and performance of this car also deliver.

On the evidence of our first drive, Volvo is right to consider its predicted sales figure as conservative – this is one Volvo that the Germans should be concerned about…

Volvo V40 – key specifications

Model Tested: Volvo V40
On Sale: July 2012
Price (range): £19,745-£26,795
Engines: Petrol 1.6 (2). Diesel 1.6, 2.0 (2)
Power (bhp): 148/177. 114, 148/174
Torque (lb/ft): 177/177. 199, 258/295
0-62mph (sec): 8.8/7.7. 12.3, 9.6/8.6 (auto 9.3/8.3)
Top speed (mph): 130/140. 118, 130/137 (auto 127/134)
Fuel economy (combined, mpg): 52.3/51/4. 78.5*, 65.7/65.7 (auto 54.3/54.3)
CO2 emissions (g/km): 125/129. 94*, 114/114 (auto 136/136)
Key rivals: BMW 1 Series, Audi A3, Mercedes-Benz A-Class
Test date: July 2012
*= with 205 series tyres. 250bhp T5 petrol engine available later

Volvo V40 on the road in the UK

Which optional extras are worth paying for?

The Car Expert staff
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12
Which optional extras are worth paying for?

Finding the right car at the right price is a complex issue, one dependent on personal tastes and the comfort, utility and economical requirements of every driver. Optional extras are one factor that experts and consumers alike have to weigh up when looking for that bargain. And whilst it’s tempting to chuck out everything you can possibly live without in pursuit of the most economical deal, optional extras aren’t actually that simple.  

We all want to have the best car we can reasonably afford, and some features enhance our ride to the point where they are more or less indispensible.  Furthermore, there are actually long-term benefits in paying for certain optional extras up front.

Optional extras – always worth a look

Metallic paint

What would you say your views are on metallic paint? Love it? Think it’s ok? Mostly indifferent? Whilst many of you will fall into the latter category, I reckon you’d be hard pressed to find anyone who actually dislikes the stuff. Does that alone make it a worthwhile optional extra? Oddly, yes.

The truth is that, since no one hates it and a few people like it, there are many who will pay extra for metallic paint at any stage of a vehicle’s life. Despite offering no practical benefit whatsoever, metallic paint can actually improve the resale value of your car. Along similar lines, leather seats and a popular, neutral colour (e.g. – silver) are other well-known depreciation busters.

Air conditioning

Increasingly only optional on barebones models, air conditioning is a feature that most cannot live without. The comfort benefit should not be underestimated and it has practical benefits in cold weather.

Parking sensors

Though you may want to skip the sensors if you’re in the market for a city car, parking sensors are an invaluable addition to larger cars and practically essential as you move further and further up the car size chart.

Sure, you should be a good enough driver to have a feel for exactly how much space your vehicle occupies. But even the best drivers have lapses in judgement: taking the sensor option may save you money in the long run, and it’ll make you more confident about finding a parking space

Optional extras – useful but overpriced

Built-in satnav

Dedicated sat nav units are going through a rough patch thanks to the navigation apps in everyone’s smartphones. Honestly, we’re not convinced that smartphones provide a better alternative: they’re far too small and can be unreliable in terms of data usage and battery life. But if you get a satnav for your car, you’re probably best off buying a stand-alone one rather than one actually built into your dashboard.

Whilst having an onboard computer is where manufacturers are naturally headed (fulfilling all of your Knight Rider fantasies) many car makers are charging too much for something with terrible software. Worse still, there are plenty of horror stories out there about extortionate maintenance charges when they go wrong. There are exceptions out there, but things need to change before the potential of sat nav as a built-in option is realised.

Bluetooth

Bluetooth is the standard for wireless communications and facilitates hand-free operation of just about every mobile phone on the market. The trouble is, manufacturers are still charging anywhere between £150 and £600 for a built-in system. Aftermarket kits cost a pitiful fraction of the cheapest extra and it’s not like they clutter up your dashboard like a satnav kit does.  If you can get a good deal on this option, consider it a modern essential. Otherwise, it’s probably best avoided.

Integrated televisions

Whether you’re looking at a central-dashboard entertainment system or screens for the back of your seats, you’re possibly saving yourself from the “Are we there yet?” headaches of bored children.  But you’ll pay through the nose for the feature, and there are alternatives.

Portable games consoles and music players will keep them entertained, and if you absolutely must have movies, you can probably invest in an iPad for your passengers for a similar price. An onboard system does have benefits – you’re not relying on battery power – so it’s still worth considering the option if you have the budget.

Sports suspension

Always an odd one – you’ll pay quite a bit extra for sports suspension but the benefit to handling is compromised by comfort. Definitely a ‘try before you buy’ proposition: some drivers love being able to tackle corners like a racing driver, but most will find themselves feeling like they’re driving a car which is a lot less refined and satisfying. Sometimes, spending less is more.

Cruise control

Purchasing cruise control should be approached with caution chiefly because operating it should be. Flipping to cruise control is good for taking the strain out of those longer motorway journeys.

However, you shouldn’t assume that cruise control is good for maintaining constant speed and cutting out all your other driving hassles. Cruise control is inconsistent when heading downhill and you override it when you’re pressing down on the accelerator – so don’t expect it to keep you safe from speed traps.

Optional extras – completely unnecessary

CD changers

Someone, somewhere, is probably still arguing that CDs sound discernibly better than digital audio (and that LPs sound ‘warmer’).  We argue that anyone who can tell the difference while driving a car is probably suffering from tinnitus and self-delusion.

The choice is simple: you could lug around a collection of CDs and switch between a handful of them, or carry your whole collection around in a device which sits in your palm (or would do, if you weren’t driving). Oh, and some manufacturers (e.g. Audi) consider the use of writeable CDs as a breach of warranty if they get stuck. Strange but true.

Night vision

Pursuing some kind of SAS automotive fantasy, night vision is the ultimate misguided gimmick, a more money than sense option for luxury vehicles. Headlights show you everything you need to see and they don’t require that you take your eyes off the road and look at a pokey little monitor either.

You should also read: The Car Expert’s Ten Golden Rules for buying a car

Downsizing your car – things to consider

Stuart Masson
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6
Downsizing your car – things to consider

“I’m downsizing my car” is a phrase that car dealers hear a lot from buyers.  People often get to a stage where they are considering a smaller car than they currently have, for a variety of reasons. 

Often it’s empty-nesters who no longer need to take the kids to school, footy practice, swimming lessons, camping holidays and so on. Other times it’s for reasons of economy – “My current car costs me too much to run” is a phrase commonly used in conjunction with downsizing.  But there are a few important things to consider when downsizing your car.

Now I’m a big fan of small cars. I like the way they are lighter, more agile and more nimble to drive than big cars. They are easier to park, usually cost less to run, tend to have less expensive tyres, brakes, and so on.

If I had a choice of two similar cars, I’d almost always take the smaller one – down to a point. There is always a point when a car is too small for your needs, and it’s important to know where that point is before you plunge into downsizing your current car for something smaller.

How small is too small?

If you are looking at downsizing your car, chances are it is because you have been upsizing your car in the past. And that makes sense – you needed a bigger car to fit little Jessica’s cello and little Johnny’s cricket bag, and now they’ve moved out of home.

But you probably also found that extra space handy when you needed to go to Ikea, or pick up supplies from the gardening centre, or travelled away with friends for the weekend. A smaller car won’t be as suitable for those sort of things, and some people find it much harder adjusting back down to a smaller car than they did getting used to a larger car.

My own parents went through this exact issue a few years ago in Australia, when they replaced their large V8 family car for a smaller, more economical four-cylinder hatch. Their regular interstate road trips with friends didn’t work very well, as it was a real squeeze fitting five adults and their luggage into their new car.

Sure, they could have hired a larger car for the weekend, but it was a hassle they hadn’t really thought about at the time of purchase. So consider carefully what you need to fit in your new car and how much you are prepared to compromise by downsizing to something smaller.

Is downsizing your car a false economy?

Smaller cars usually cost less to run than larger cars, in terms of fuel, registration and consumables. New cars are usually cheaper to service than older cars, both in terms of the cost of each service and the regularity with which servicing is required.

But that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a guaranteed money saver to buy a smaller car, especially if the alternative is to keep your current car. People often change their cars because they get frustrated with a spate of large bills on their current car, and this often coincides with a desire to reduce their motoring costs by buying a small car.

However, what they tend to overlook in their frustration is that they are often paying thousands upfront to change their car, in order to save hundreds on annual running costs.  If you are considering downsizing your car for economic reasons, make sure you calculate your numbers carefully.

Of course, if you are replacing your car anyway, and choosing between a larger car and a smaller car, it is usually much more economical to go for the smaller car.

Are you sitting comfortably?

It seems that far more drivers find it difficult to adjust when going from a large car to a small car than vice versa, which is the opposite of what people tend to think.  Instinct suggests that if you can handle a big car around the shopping centre car park, then a small car will make your life much easier. But downsizing drivers often find smaller cars to be less comfortable to drive than their larger car.

In the same way that a large ship will cope with waves much better than a little dinghy, a larger car will generally absorb bumps and broken road surfaces better than a small car will. A smaller car will be more agile in handling and manoeuvrability, but that will also make it feel more nervous and less stable on a motorway, and more susceptible to crosswinds.

Smaller cars also tend to downsize other aspects of the car that you might not have considered, like the width of the seat or the range of adjustment of the steering wheel. It’s really important to have a decent test drive and take your time finding a comfortable seating position before you commit to buying a smaller car.

Are you downsizing performance as well as size?

When drivers are downsizing their car for economy reasons, it usually follows that they start looking closely at fuel economy figures, and choosing engines which give the best reported economy without considering any performance implications.

The most economical engines on official reports tend to be the lowest performance engines as well, and glossy car brochures tend not to mention that they often make for incredibly slow cars which struggle to keep up with the cut and thrust of normal traffic, let alone motorway driving with four people on board.

And if you are having to work your engine harder just to keep up with traffic, you will be using far more fuel than the official figures suggest.  In fact, you may be using more fuel than a larger car (or larger-engined car) which is coping with the same traffic much more easily.

Several years ago years ago, the Top Gear TV show highlighted an extreme example of this by putting a super-efficient Toyota Prius hybrid car up against a very powerful – and officially very uneconomical – BMW M3 V8 sports saloon. The hybrid was driven flat-out for a given distance, with the V8 sports car following along behind at the same speed.  Because the sports car was coping with the pace much more easily than the hybrid, it actually used less fuel.

It was a somewhat silly comparison, but did highlight the fact that hard driving kills fuel economy – so a ‘65mpg’ Prius hybrid actually recorded 17mpg when driven flat-out while the ‘23mpg’ BMW M3 sports car recorded 19mpg travelling at the same pace.

As with any car purchase, it is really important to carefully consider the implications of downsizing from a larger car to a smaller one.  Because you might be getting less than you bargained for.

Alloy wheels – the wheel deal

Stuart Masson
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49
Alloy wheels – the wheel deal

Why do some drivers spend thousands of pounds on alloy wheels for their cars?  Is it all about looks, or is there a technical reason behind it?  And how do different size wheels affect the way your car drives?

The wheels on your car have a tough job.  As well as transferring power from the engine to the road and steering you in the direction you’d like to go (in conjunction with the four tyres wrapped around them), the wheels have to maintain their perfectly round shape to deliver you a smooth ride, despite being bounced over speed humps, through potholes and crunched up against kerbs during poorly-judged parking manoeuvres.

On many cars, especially high-performance models, alloy wheels may also aid cooling to the brakes to make sure the car stops safely under hard driving.  So how do different wheels affect the way your car drives?

Alloy wheels are replacing steel wheels across the industry

Lower-priced new cars, and many older cars, will come standard with wheels made from steel.  Steel is the metal of choice for most parts of a car, as it is cheap and can be made into different shapes quite easily, so it has always been an obvious choice to use for wheels.  But more and more cars are now equipped with wheels made from aluminium alloys, which are stronger and lighter than steel.

An alloy wheel will be much lighter than a steel wheel of the same size, which improves the car’s ride and handling as there is less weight bouncing around for the suspension to cope with and less weight for you to steer when you turn the wheel.

An alloy wheel is also stronger than a steel wheel, which means it will flex less around corners, helping the car to handle better.  However, a very big shock (such as hitting a pothole) is more likely to crack or shatter an alloy wheel, whereas a steel wheel will flex and absorb some of the impact, making it less likely to break.

Alloy wheels also tend to be stylised and polished, whereas steel wheels would rust unless treated and painted, and are usually covered with a decorative plastic trim (you know, the kind you inevitably see lying by the side of the road after they get knocked off), so a set of alloy wheels usually enhances the look of a car.

You should also read: Caring for your alloy wheels

Alloy wheels – is bigger always better?

Most cars will give you the option of paying more money to have larger alloy wheels fitted.  On the car, however, the total rolling height of the wheel and tyre must remain the same, so a larger wheel means a lower profile (thinner) tyre.  In the photo to the left we have a 15-inch wheel (left), a 16-inch wheel (centre) and a 17-inch wheel (right), all mounted in tyres to fit the same car.  If you look at the three wheels, you will see that the overall height of each wheel/tyre unit is the same, but the 17-inch wheel has a much ‘thinner’ tyre than the 15-inch wheel.

Being constructed from rubber, the tyre flexes and absorbs a lot of the small impact of bumps in the road, effectively forming part of the car’s suspension. A lower profile tyre has less rubber in the sidewall to flex and soak up the bumps, so a larger wheel/thinner tyre combination will give you a firmer ride, making the car feel noticeably bumpier.  However, less flex and wobble will mean improved handling as the car changes direction through a corner or under braking.

But the real, and simple, reason that most people pay lots of money for bigger wheels is for the looks – although don’t expect expensive alloy wheels to add much to the car’s resale value down the track.  I used to have an Audi A5 with 20-inch alloy wheels (standard was 17-inch).  The large wheels meant the tyres were extremely low profile, so hitting a pothole or going over a speed hump was – literally – a painful experience, and sometimes it felt like the car had no suspension at all.  But it looked fantastic…

Recommended reading:

Do big alloy wheels crack more easily?  The Car Expert answers a reader’s question about the fragility of big alloys.
Which optional extras are worth paying for?  It’s easy to rack up thousands of pounds in options on a new car, but which are actually worth it?

Depreciation – Why do new cars lose so much money?

Stuart Masson
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11
Depreciation – Why do new cars lose so much money?

It’s an age-old complaint of car buyers around the world – as soon as you drive your shiny new car off the forecourt, it loses a quarter of its value.  Anyone who has tried to sell their new car back to the dealership can certainly vouch for this rather rapid depreciation in their car’s worth.  So why is this the case?

Let’s have a look at where all that money disappears to.  As an example, let’s look at a new car costing £20,000 on the road (including all taxes and charges) as its recommended retail price.

Road tax on your car for its first 12 months is probably going to be somewhere around £150 (it can be anywhere between £0 and £1,000, depending on the car’s CO2 emissions), and the DVLA will also slug you a further £55 administration fee for no good reason other than because they can.  So that’s about £200.

VAT – the government’s contribution towards depreciation

VAT is the big one – and on a £20,000 car (minus the registration charges) it’s going to come in at about £4,000. That goes straight to HM Revenue and Customs.  So a £20,000 new car is really just under £16,000 + tax.

The dealership has its costs of sales – what it costs them to run the business – which it has to factor into every car it sells.  That means paying staff (the sales executive, business manager and sales manager will all get a commission on each car, plus there are wages for admin staff, technicians, cleaners and valets), running a fleet of demonstrators, maintaining the showroom, advertising costs and so on.  It varies across different dealers, brand and locations, but you’d be looking at £1,000 to £2,000 per car.

In addition to covering its costs, the dealership will want to make a profit on every car it sells.  The exact amount will again vary, but it’s fair to guess it could be another £1,000 to £2,000 (although in today’s climate, it could well be a lot less).

So you as the customer might be paying £20,000 for the car, but the dealership may have bought that car for as little as £12,000.  And if that’s what they are paying for a brand new car, how much do you think they are going to pay for your used car (even if it is virtually new)?

Well, there’s no VAT to worry about on a used car (except in certain cases, such as dealer demonstrators), but on the other hand, the manufacturer would rather the dealers sell new cars rather than used cars, so there are sales targets and financial implications relating to how well they perform against those targets.  Plus a customer who can buy a brand new car for £20,000 is unlikely to pay a similar amount for a used car – regardless of why it’s used.

So what was a £20,000 brand new car would probably be offered for sale at £16-17,000 if it was used but ‘as new’.  Take out the dealer’s costs and profit, and you’re probably back to about £12,000 again in terms of what they would buy it from you for.

Depreciation averages out over time

While people bemoan the instant depreciation on their new car, is it really a great problem for car buyers?  If you are going to keep your car for the average 3+ years, then there’s really no need to get too concerned about it.

Over that sort of timeframe, the cost difference between buying new and used diminishes greatly.  Also keep in mind that when you buy a used car, you might not have to worry about VAT, but you will still have to factor in the dealership’s cost of sales and profits – and the costs to prepare a used car for sale may well be a lot higher than for a new car.

The best advice is to remember that cars always cost more than you think when you want to buy one, and are worth less than you think when you want to sell one!

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